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ICMAD: INDEPENDENT BEAUTY’S SECRET WEAPON GETS A MAKEOVER

Published September 28, 2020
Published September 28, 2020
Siora Photography via Unsplash

Independent Cosmetic Manufacturers and Distributors (ICMAD) has been the secret weapon for beauty entrepreneurs and independent companies for the past 45 years. The nonprofit trade association was founded in 1974, as independent beauty brand founders and suppliers collaborated to offer regulatory help, liability insurance, and lobbying efforts to members.

ICMAD has a new name, an updated identity, and an expanded mission. The rebrand to Independent Beauty Association (IBA) reflects the rapidly shifting industry landscape and is a visual representation of the evolution the organization has undertaken to focus on four pillars: education, networking, member service, and advocacy.

Dr. Ken Marenus, President of IBA, Chris Hobson, President and Chief Executive Officer of Rare Beauty Brands and Chairman of the board of directors at IBA, and Ian Ginsberg, board member of IBA and President of C.O. Bigelow Apothecaries, share the vision for the association and its commitment to members and role in helping to move the industry forward.

After 45 years, why did you feel it was time that the organization change the name and do a full rebrand? What was the goal for doing this work?

Chris Hobson: The organization has been helping entrepreneurial beauty and personal care companies since 1974. Since that time, the market has seen a dramatic rise in the number of independent beauty brands fueled by technologies such as the internet, social media, and e-commerce, and along with that, massive growth in retailer, investor, and supplier interest in the sector. To continue to serve our members, we have been going through a period of renewal for a couple of years now, and this represents the culmination of that work, setting us up to support the community for another 45 years and beyond.

Historically the organization has been known as a regulatory resource for independent beauty businesses and for the lobbying work done on the industry’s behalf. Has the mission evolved as well as the name and identity?

Ian Ginsberg: Initially it was a sisterhood and brotherhood of beauty and personal care businesses offering the above as well as group liability insurance programs and networking amongst the members. We also offered something called “Call Me First,” which was a resource only offered to members. A complete listing of all the members (presidents and CEOs of the member companies), what they do, and their phone numbers.

Dr. Marenus, you’ve had a very full career. What was the impetus for taking on the leadership of the organization last May? What is your vision for IBA?

Dr. Ken Marenus: I retired after over 36 years working in this wonderful industry. I started as a Sr. Scientist and retired as a Sr. Vice President. Along the way, I had the privilege of meeting amazing people like Dr. Albert Kligman and Mr. Leonard Lauder.

I was introduced to IBA (then ICMAD) and its constituency and realized I wasn’t done yet. The small cosmetic companies are the true lifeblood of the industry. I joined up to give back to the industry that had given me so much. IBA supports the very smallest to substantially sized companies. It’s an ever more complex environment that is continually putting new challenges in front of us. I am here to make sure everyone has a chance to enjoy the success I have had.

The beauty and wellness ecosystem is vast. What types of businesses can benefit from becoming a member of IBA?

Chris Hobson: IBA’s members include retailers across multiple sectors (Mass, Prestige, Specialty), brands from virtually all segments of beauty and personal care (skin, hair, body, color, fragrance, wellness etc.), suppliers of everything from raw materials to packaging to contract manufacturing, to the whole ecosystem of service providers that help the other industry players take their products to market.

Time and money are limited these days and businesses are inundated with memberships, subscriptions, and events. Why should a brand or business owner become a member of IBA?

Ian Ginsberg: We are fairly inexpensive with an enormous value proposition. As a nonprofit, our only mission is to help and support our members. Of course, we need funds to do so to fuel the machine, but it’s not a business for profit. First and foremost it is incredibly important to support the industry that supports you. You should also surround yourself with as much information and resources as you can to help navigate the industry. We are stronger together and the information, resources, mentorship, networking are priceless. This is a membership that pays huge dividends. Many of the other memberships, subscriptions, and events are singularly focused—IBA is multi-focused on things that serve to foster the growth of our members.

The IBA membership includes the supply side of the industry. There has been a lot of coverage on how brands and retailers have been navigating the COVID-19 crisis. Do you have any insight you can share on how your supply-side members are faring?

Dr. Ken Marenus: The supply side supports the success of the small brands. Without their council or contributions, the most entrepreneurial and innovative start-ups might not have had the practical wherewithal to move forward. During this time we have highlighted the expertise of these supporting companies through focused webinars. Our presentations are designed to give practical “bottom-up” advice to those struggling. Since the advent of COVID-19, we have produced approximately 30+ webinars on relevant survival topics covering almost all the aspects of running a small business in troubled times.

Ian and Chris, you have both volunteered a tremendous amount of time over the years in your roles at ICMAD/IBA. Why and what does this organization mean to you?

Ian Ginsberg: I have been a member since 1993. I attended an FDA workshop when I began importing from Europe and knew “0” about regulations. Not only did I learn a ton but I saw this amazing camaraderie amongst everyone in the room and an amazing willingness to help. After having phones slammed down on me, I received the “Call Me First” directory with a complete Rolodex of everyone in the beauty industry willing to take my call and answer any questions I had. If they couldn’t help me, they referred me to someone else. I believe in life—it is more important to give than to take. This industry is awesome and has been good to me and I feel it’s always been my duty to do what I can to give back. Whether as Chair or through my work in the various committees, I have found it to be extremely rewarding. I have met amazing people and continue to learn a ton. Through my participation as a board member and a member of the organization, it’s just another opportunity to keep my finger on the pulse of the industry.

Chris Hobson: I agree with Ian. Over the course of my entrepreneurial career, I’ve been fortunate to receive guidance and mentorship from successful people. In fact, Patchology was helped immensely in the early years by winning the organization’s CITY Awards (now the IBI Awards) and by the advice we received from the people I met on the Board and in the membership. My contribution to IBA now is my way of paying that back, and hopefully paying it forward to the next generation of entrepreneurs.

What are some of the issues, challenges, and opportunities IBA is currently taking?

Dr. Ken Marenus: IBA is focused on Education, Advocacy, Networking, and Member Services. For education, we are providing insight and information through every vehicle available. For example, we are having a virtual FDA workshop on September 29 that will feature the directors of both the Cosmetics and OTC sections in the U.S. FDA. They will be speaking to current conditions as well as specific topics like the impact of the “CARES Act” on OTC regulations.

For advocacy, we believe in reasonable legislation that is science-based and proportional. We are constantly monitoring efforts by certain states that might put unnecessary and unwarranted stumbling blocks in front of our members. At the federal level, we are monitoring the progress of a new comprehensive cosmetics regulation. We also advocate for simplicity, when possible, like the terms of repayment for small PPP loans.

Networking is a critical tool to help the brands and suppliers meet. Prior to COVID, we were having local networking events so those companies in a given locale could meet both brands and suppliers face to face. These were very well-liked and will continue as soon as is reasonable.

For member services, we provide distinct export services for those companies wishing to go offshore. We also have strong partners that can provide support for market entry almost anywhere in the world. In addition, we have a “concierge” program where any member can get critical information from either our staff experts or other members,

What can the industry expect from IBA in 2021?

Dr. Ken Marenus: While the industry and the world struggles with COVID-19, the worlds of regulation and business continue to move forward. We will continue with the programs in our focus areas, defying all obstacles.

In addition, in the past ICMAD was very much focused on the technical and regulatory sides of the industry. Our expertise in those areas will continue as IBA. At the same time, we are planning to provide more education and benefits in the business side of our industry, especially focused on those entrepreneurial and innovative enterprises that keep us all moving ahead.

In addition, in the past ICMAD was very much focused on the technical and regulatory sides of the industry. Our expertise in those areas will continue as IBA. At the same time, we are planning to provide more education and benefits in the business side of our industry, especially focused on those entrepreneurial and innovative enterprises that keep us all moving ahead.

Join IBA: From start-ups to established multinational businesses of all sizes, IBA membership is representative of the complete category value chain from new and established indie brands and retailers to suppliers and distributors.

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