Olivier Cresp is nothing short of a fragrance industry legend, the nose behind bestsellers such as Angel by Thierry Mugler, Light Blue by Dolce & Gabbana, and Black Opium by Yves Saint Laurent. He joined Firmenich in 1992 and currently holds the title of master perfumer at the company. He was awarded Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres from the French Minister of Culture in 2012 and received the Lifetime Achievement Award from the Fragrance Foundation in 2018.

His daughter, Anaïs Cresp, also has an impressive amount of creative prowess, having worked as a visual merchandiser for Guerlain and L’Oréal. In 2017, inspired by her olfactory encounters living in London, the two founded Akro, a fragrance brand themed around addiction and life’s pleasures. Its headquarters are located in Ladbroke Grove, the very place of origin for its concept.

The subject matter—often perceived as dark, heavy, and less than aesthetically appealing—may seem a jarring concept for perfumes to some, which is often sold more on fantasy than harsh reality, but how often are the words used to describe fragrances—intoxicating, addictive, moreish—the same terminology we would use for said topic?

The Akro take on addiction is neither bleak nor dreary; in fact, addiction serves as a starting point for a remarkable range of fragrances. There’s the energizing notes of Santos coffee, green cardamom, and Haitian vetiver in Awake, a nod to coffee at Bluebelles of Portobello ; the delicious cocoa, dark chocolate, and hazelnut concoction Dark, a tribute to the dark chocolate by Soho chocolatiers Said London.

For those who prefer their vices in rolled form, there are Smoke and Haze: the first emulating the first drag of a cigarette with cade, tobacco leaves, and tonka bean; the second a recreation of Notting Hill Carnival in 2009 with absinthe, clary sage, and armoise. Whiskey aficionados can drink in Malt, a blend of whiskey, rum, and leather reminiscent of London pubs.Those craving corporeal pursuits will find solace in Night, a lust- and love-filled encounter of Bulgarian rose, saffron, and agaroud. Tattoo lovers can dive their noses into Ink, a cool mix of black ink notes, tar, jasmine, and birch.

Last year the brand released three fragrances: Bake, inspired by the lemon cupcakes of Carnaby Street’s Crumbs & Doilies, a tart yet succulent marriage of lemon peel, Chantilly cream, and vanilla; Rise, a nod to divine summer moments with facets of coconut water, tiare flower, pina colada, and sandalwood; and East, themed around travel to the Middle East specifically, which pairs oud assafi with raspberry, leather, and ambrox.

The fragrances are multifaceted and rich in story, while their packaging is sleek and streamlined, an ink calligraphy-style writing of Akro across an otherwise subtle bottle, letting the juice inside take center stage. The brand has collaborated with a range of artists to lend their creative touch to said bottles like Laura Scribbles and Mister Phil. Other projects include a Dark fragrance-flavored chocolate bar by French master chocolatier Nicholas Cloiseau, released Willy Wonka style with a golden ticket given away with each Discovery Kit that granted winners a 100ml bottle of the fragrance plus chocolate bar. For 4/20, a limited-edition set of Haze was created in partnership with Vancouver-based Herbal Goods, which provided a box of five all-natural, pre-rolled cones for smoking. To celebrate the launch of Ink, Akro partnered with London street artist Robert Bondar, who personalized 100 tin boxes of Ink with a custom design.

In anticipation of the brand’s next release, BeautyMatter sat down with Olivier Cresp to discuss calculated creative risks, his family’s long lineage of fragrance artistry, and bringing fresh perspectives into perfumery.

Akro centers around the concept of addiction. What was the balancing act of creating a fragrance brand around such dark subject matter?

We launched the company in 2018, the concept is born in England, and it’s Anaïs who founded it. My daughter asked me if I was keen to work around addictions—a concept that no one had explored until then. My approach to perfumery is figurative and minimalist, using very few ingredients. Through my creations, I have managed to evoke addictions such as coffee or chocolate. Of course, we cannot replicate addictions such as gambling or work, but there are others that are more accessible. Nowadays, we talk about life's pleasures more than addictions.

What was the inspiration for the visual style of the brand?

The brand name is Akro, derived from the French word "accro," which means addict; so it signifies being addicted to something and unable to resist. Anaïs, inspired by this powerful concept of addiction, found inspiration to create the logo.

What was the process of creating the brand—was it self-funded or do you work with investors?

In 2018, Anaïs and myself decided to start our company which is called Les Influenceurs; we want to influence the perfumery world with our trends and we are the two co founders, and two years ago we decided to work with someone else—Thibaud [de Vaulchier], which is our job partner. We don’t have any investors for our development but we are reaching the figures and revenues that we're expecting after five years.

You’ve created some of the best-selling fragrances of all time, in their creation process did you realize you had a game-changing fragrance in your hands?

I am currently still working at Firmenich as a master perfumer, where I've had the privilege of creating several iconic fragrances throughout my career, including Angel by Mugler, Light Blue and Devotion by Dolce & Gabbana, Mon Paris, and Black Opium by YSL, among others. Anaïs and I shared a vision to establish our own company, focusing on the niche fragrance market. Each time I introduce a new fragrance to the market, I strive to innovate rather than follow existing trends. My aim is to bring fresh perspectives and new trends to the industry, making my fragrances truly game-changing.

How does your work as a perfumer differ when working for niche versus larger fragrance houses?

When working with my niche brand, I use the Firmenich palette, but I'm more daring and willing to take risks. Some of our fragrances have been incredibly successful, and we're confident in setting ourselves apart from the market. I tend to push the boundaries, often exaggerating the use of ingredients and emphasizing quality and innovation. However, it's all about taking calculated risks to push the boundaries of creativity.

What have been the biggest fragrance triumphs and struggles throughout your career?

At the age of 35, I achieved significant success with one of my most renowned fragrances, Angel by Mugler, which I'm particularly proud of due to its groundbreaking nature and enduring appeal. On top of that, introducing the gourmand fragrance family was a personally fulfilling achievement for me.

Additionally, Light Blue's remarkable success since its launch in 2001, consistently ranking among the top fragrances in the market, has been immensely gratifying. Its refreshing blend of lemon and apple has stood the test of time, continuing to gain market share even after two decades. While I've had many triumphs with brands like Kenzo and Givenchy, I must acknowledge that not all my creations have been equally successful; for instance, Magnifique by Lancôme didn't resonate with consumers as anticipated. The success of a fragrance isn't solely determined by its originality and quality; effective marketing and merchandising play important roles in driving its growth and popularity.

How would you describe the working partnership between yourself and your daughter Anaïs for Akro?

Anaïs and I get along very well together; we share similar temperaments and characters. Of course she is much younger but our connection is strong. We've always had a close relationship, especially within the family, but now it's even closer as we discuss every day. Anaïs provides insights into fragrance development through marketing and merchandising, while I contribute to the creative process of fragrance creation for Akro. She tries the fragrances and gives feedback, making our collaboration fun. Working with the Akro team, which consists of over 12 people, has been rewarding, and I'm pleased with what we've achieved so far.

How does having come from, and continuing, a lineage of perfumery in your family impact your relationship to scent?

I am French, born in Grasse. Both my father and grandfather were ingredient brokers, specializing in the trade of bergamot, mandarin, as well as jasmine and rose. Growing up, I was immersed in the world of perfumery within my family. My sister, brother, my son Sebastien, and I are all perfumers, deeply passionate about our craft. Over my 32 years of working with Firmenich, I have been influenced by both synthetic molecules and natural ingredients, enabling me to create a wide range of exceptional fragrances.

What is the best advice you have been given during your time in the industry?

I am self-taught in perfumery. Without mentors or formal guidance, I relied on my own determination and passion. For aspiring perfumers, I emphasize the importance of being passionate and dedicated. The path to success in this field is a lengthy one; it often takes at least 10 years to establish oneself in the market. Despite its challenges, the journey is both rewarding and fulfilling.

What keeps the world of fragrance creation new and exciting to you?

After over 40 years in the industry, my passion for perfumery remains as strong as ever. The evolving landscape of our world, especially in fragrances, continues to fuel my enthusiasm. With a growing clientele, our work has become more intensive and dynamic. We're witnessing advancements in extraction techniques, such as microwave extractions and ingredient fractions from natural sources. Exciting new molecules are emerging, and technological innovations are reshaping our craft. It makes me very happy to be part of this wave of creativity and innovation.

As a renowned perfumer, how do you deal with the pressure of expectations when creating?

At the start of my career, I definitely felt a lot of pressure. I had high expectations for myself and was determined to succeed. I think I have achieved my goals, and after having lots of worldwide blockbusters, that pressure has melted away. Now, I approach my work as more of a game, something enjoyable and fun. It's not to say it's effortless—it’s never easy—but I no longer feel the weight of stress, especially when working on projects for Akro, our brand. Collaborating with younger generations has injected a fresh perspective into our work, making the process even more enjoyable as we embrace new ways of thinking.

What projects do you have planned for 2024?

It's going to be a rich year for Akro as we are planning to launch three new fragrances. First up is Infuse, based on the addiction to tea, which will be launched in April. Once again, I'm breaking away from conventional market trends to offer something truly unique. Two other new addictions will follow in June and September, which will be bright and definitely new hits! We look forward to introducing them to you in the coming months.