Asian skincare innovation is leading the way with concentrated waterless formulations that are pure and minimize waste. Lyophilization, or freeze drying as defined by the FDA, is a process by which water is removed from a product after it is frozen and placed under a vacuum, allowing the ice to change directly from solid to vapor without passing through a liquid phase.

The cosmetic industry uses the process as a way to preserve the qualities of ingredients in their natural, raw, most active form without the need for additional preservatives or stabilizers. While not a new technology, we’re seeing more products launching using the technology as waterless products gain traction and brands continue to minimize the use of fillers and preservatives.

Weibo Hi-Tech Cosmetics is a biotechnology group with strong research and production capabilities holding more than 200 patents. The company showcased their Freeze-Drying and Flash Release Technology derived from the pharmaceutical industry that rapidly sublimates water in liquid serum to produce a dehydrated formula. The company has applied the technology to 15 serums and masks ready for commercialization that it launched at Cosmoprof Asia Digital Week.

Saro de Rúe, a luxury K-beauty brand and unit of P&J Medesthetics Inc., partnered with a Korean pharmaceutical research and development lab with worldwide patented technologies to adapt methods proven in the medical field into skincare. The result is a freeze-dried hyaluronic acid (HA) system that uses patented technology to prepare a lower hyaluronic acid molecular weight capable of working deep within the skin. The 100 % pure HA tablet is designed to instantly dissolve into a powerful serum with a few drops of the Pure Activator. It’s free of preservatives, additives, and chemicals, contains only three ingredients, hyaluronic acid, squalane, and tocopherol, and makes the claim of 72 hours of hydration from a single application.