Back in 2021, BeautyMatter outlined the “new natural” innovations fueling the estimated $52.4 billion global fragrance industry, from those championing its traditional routes and return to nature amidst a digitized world to scientists bioengineering new raw materials.
Leading fragrance and flavors provider Firmenich, the largest privately owned company of its kind worldwide, unveiled its curated lineup for an excitingly fragrant year ahead. The Sharing Innovation 2022 collection features five of the company’s existing signature ingredients (two synthetics, one biotechnology ingredient, two naturals), intended to ignite a creative spark amongst olfactory creators.
MUGUISSIMO imitates lily-of-the-valley—a note emulated in solely synthetic form, which became complicated when the EU banned two of its most prominent odorants Lilial and Lyral in recent years—with more aquatic and anise undertones for a lighter take on the popular floral component. SYLVAMBER fuses powdery and amber facets with cedarwood. Described as “a vibrant modern woody note,” it is sure to become popular from the enterprise that birthed contemporary classics such as Glossier You, Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium, and Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue.
On the subject of classics, the Damascus rose (this reiteration grown in Bulgaria) makes a more sheer and lightweight, yet still sweet and spicy appearance in the form of ROSE DAMASCENA FIRAD—FIRAD referring to the technology which renders the material with a more watery odor profile with hints of litchi, ideal for more transparent floral compositions. Firmenich uses an exclusive cold concentration technique, extracting the volatile, water-soluble aroma compounds from the rose water. Aside from upcycling, the manufacturer also demonstrates full traceability through its supply chain with VANILLA PLANIFOLIA MADAGASCAR INFUSION P2F. The sought-after raw material has a tumultuous past and present, ranging from severe shortages to economic hardships for harvesters. Firmenich is hoping to show that beauty needn’t come at such a high proverbial cost thanks to the Path2Farm digital tool, which traces the entire (ethical and responsibly sourced) journey of the beautiful Vanilla Planifolia, distinguished by a creamy and leathery aromatic character.
On the biotechnology front, the company presents Z11 HD, a 100% biodegradable and renewable dry and woody-smelling ingredient with amber accents. Z11 HD—the elusive name is derived from the Z for Zurich University where Firmenich helped discover the molecule, the eleventh in its lineup, with the help of Professor Leopold Ruzicka— began its journey as Manool, an extract from the Manao tree in New Zealand. Today the ingredient is completely lab produced.
“This year’s Sharing Innovation collection is a testament to Firmenich’s commitment to green science and positive impact,” says Julien Firmenich, VP Product Strategy and Promotion. “We are very proud to unveil yet another inspiring collection, with innovative and remarkable ingredients made possible through our cutting-edge research platforms and leading technologies, our responsible sourcing policy and our innovative digital capabilities.”
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