Fresh off its recent $1.5 million seed round led by OTP Ventures and Huddle Ventures and additional funding from Eternal Capital, BeautyMatter caught up with Asaya, the skincare brand that is paving the way for melanin-rich skin skincare in India. With highly rated products and over 35% repeat customers across all platforms, Asaya has witnessed 9x growth in the last 12 months, highlighting the growing appetite for melanin-rich skin care in India and the lack of other similar products in the market.

On a mission to raise awareness about the personalized focus that melanin-rich skin needs, co-founder Eeti Sharma shares Asaya’s plans for advanced melanin-centric research and the untapped potential of the melanin-rich skin care market in India.

Asaya is the first melanin-rich skincare brand in India. What inspired you to tap into this underserved market and start Asaya?

Asaya was born out of my own struggles as a melanin-rich individual, dealing with adult acne, and having no access to skincare products that were designed specifically for my skin. After trying numerous solutions, I quickly realized that most skincare products were tried and tested for lighter skin tones. This highlighted that that was a gap in the market that needed to be addressed immediately, and somewhere deep down I knew I could fill the void myself. After a lot of research and conducting several in-depth interviews, it became clear that melanin-rich individuals faced unique skincare challenges owing to their unique skin structure. But this was yet to become knowledge among brands and consumers, who knew there was a problem and gap in the market but didn’t understand why. That’s how Asaya was born—a unique skincare brand that offers innovative, effective, and high-performance solutions that cater specifically to the needs of melanated skin tones.

For those who may not understand, what exactly is melanin-rich skin, and could you provide some data or statistics that could help our readers understand the potential of this market?

Simply put, melanin-rich skin contains higher levels of melanin, the pigment that gives us our unique hues and complexions. However, it also presents a range of specific skin conditions like hyperpigmentation, increased propensity towards acne, and dehydration. This is particularly relevant in India, where a significant portion of the population, over 1.4 billion people, have melanin-rich skin. Market data indicates that there is growing demand for skincare solutions tailored to these specific needs, with many consumers becoming aware of and dissatisfied with currently available products. This presents an exciting opportunity for brands like Asaya to address this gap and cater to an underserved market segment.

How does Asaya aim to raise awareness about the importance of melanin-rich skin in an industry that has overlooked it for so long?

Asaya is dedicated to raising awareness about the importance of melanin-rich skin by actively educating consumers and the industry through targeted campaigns and content. We use educational, dermatological, social, emotional, and oftentimes even humorous messaging to relay our purpose. Additionally, we emphasize the unique needs of melanin-rich skin in our messaging and product development. By sharing insights from our extensive research and personal experiences, we aim to challenge conventional beauty standards and highlight the significance and importance of inclusive skincare.

I can imagine that it must have been quite tricky to formulate the right products for melanin-rich skin. Could you share some of the challenges or obstacles that you have faced along the way and how you overcame them?

Yes, you’re absolutely right! Formulating effective products for melanin-rich skin presented several challenges, primarily due to unique skin concerns such as addressing hyperpigmentation and the need to protect the skin barrier. One significant obstacle was finding the right ingredients that effectively addressed these issues without irritating the skin, and then determining the right dose. Additionally ensuring that the texture and sensorial feel of the products are as elegant as their functionality on melanin-rich skin, especially in categories like sun protection.

Why is melanin-rich skin so different from non-melanin-rich skin and what ingredients, formulations or products are best suited for it? 

For starters, melanin-rich skin's outer layer is compact, in comparison to lighter skin, resulting in thicker skin which needs specialty care and active ingredients with specialized weight for effective infiltration. It is also very prone to hyperpigmentation owing to external stressors like excessive exposure to UV radiation, allergic reactions, and or acne. Additionally, it has a much lower moisture retention capacity or natural moisturizing factor (NMF), which results in the skin’s inability to effectively retain moisture. And finally, the lipid content in melanin-rich skin cells is much higher, which leads to the unregulated production of sebum that makes  the skin much more prone to acne.

What are the most common issues or concerns faced by those who have melanin-rich skin, and how does Asaya aim to address them?

The most common issues faced by melanin-rich skin include hyperpigmentation, dark spots, dullness, and sagging skin. At Asaya, we aim to address these specific skin concerns with targeted formulations through measured active ingredients, innovative formulations, and formats that work for melanated skin.

Are there any myths or misconceptions about melanin-rich skin that you aim to debunk through Asaya?

Yes there are several myths about melanin-rich skin that Asaya aims to debunk. One common misconception is that melanin-rich skin doesn’t need sun protection or is less prone to sun damage. In reality, melanin-rich skin can still suffer a lot from sun damage and hyperpigmentation, making effective sun protection critical. Another myth is that melanin-rich skin doesn’t require specialized skincare. Both are absolutely not true, and we are on our way to busting these myths!

How important is education and advocacy in building a brand like Asaya, and how have you been educating your consumers about the importance of looking after their melanin-rich skin?

Education and advocacy are crucial for building a brand like Asaya, as they help raise awareness and challenge existing beauty standards. We've prioritized educating our consumers by sharing detailed information about the unique needs of melanin-rich skin through our website, social media channels, and content collaborations. We even have a podcast series on understanding melanated skin with our expert dermatologist on Instagram, while also providing insights on how our products address these specific concerns through engaging and relatable content on social media. 

What does being the first melanin-rich skincare brand mean to you and what does the near future look like for Asaya? 

As a brand, we’re trying to lead much-needed change in an industry that has long overlooked the needs of melanin-rich individuals for too long. This position allows us to set new standards for inclusive skincare and show consumers that they do have a choice and in-fact a solution. However it also means that there is a huge responsibility for us to deliver on that promise through effective products. Soon, we plan to expand our product range, enhance our research and development efforts, and continue advocating for the unique needs of melanin-rich skin. We are indexing on specific concerns like hyperpigmentation. And after nearly two years of research, we have recently launched a proprietary molecule MelaMeTM that is super- fast acting and effective and in fading dark spots. 

How important is inclusivity to Asaya, and how do you ensure that your products and marketing resonate with your community? 

Inclusivity is at the core of Asaya’s mission. When it comes to our products, we are constantly researching, developing, and improving our products and formulations to suit the needs of our evolving consumers. Eventually, we hope to provide a comprehensive solution for all skin concerns and for individuals with varying skin types. This extends to our marketing too and is reflected in our commitment of celebrating diverse beauty and highlighting real experiences from our community. We ensure our messaging and imagery authentically reflect and resonate with those we aim to serve. 

And finally, are there any exciting innovations/product launches you wouldn’t mind sharing with us or anything else that you would like to share with our readers?

We’re thrilled about introducing Asaya’s very own, patented cutting-edge technology, featuring an innovative ingredient called MelaMeTM. This groundbreaking solution will address the concerns of hyperpigmentation effectively and at an unprecedented pace. We have already launched a serum and moisturizer that includes it and are excited to expand this portfolio soon. In addition to this, we are committed to tackling issues that matter to our consumers, bringing world-class innovation and developments to them. We are also particularly excited about the upcoming launch of our Korea-made range, which features a sophisticated, refined range of moisturizers, cleansers, and serums built on the foundation of hydration and some active ingredients that have yet to be seen in Indian brands.