While it might not be the path to fame and fortune that it was in, say, the Nineties or early Aughts when print was thriving, landing splashy editorials and ad campaigns is still a goal for plenty of rising hair talent. And for New York City-based colorist Jackson Heller, it’s a key way he keeps his name out there while making a solid go of his first-ever salon.
Located on Waverly Place in the West Village, the 500-square-foot, two-station, eponymously named space is “clean, modern, minimal and soothing,” says Heller. “I want clients to feel relaxed when they’re in my chair but also excited to have their color refreshed or transformed, depending on the look that they want to achieve.”
Opened just over a year ago, Jackson Heller offers a full roster of color services, ranging from a Gloss at $175 and Base Bump priced at $200 to a full-on Double Process Transformation that starts at $650 and heads north, depending on the complexity of the case. And while the emphasis is clearly on color, Heller has hairstylist Sarajane Lynch pop in once a week for cuts, should his clients request them.
Although there was no shortage of viable Manhattan neighborhoods to hang his first shingle, Heller feels a special kinship with the one he eventually chose.
“A mix of cosmic magic and Craigslist led me to Waverly Place,” he recalls. “I had gone to an Erykah Badu concert in Prospect Park with friends and came home feeling inspired. I was already planning to open my salon but began perusing Craigslist that night and came across the listing for Waverly Place. I really wanted a mom-and-pop space owned by a local New Yorker. I went to see it the next day and it was perfect. I signed the lease that week.”
A native of Oklahoma, Heller grew up in Austin, Texas, and ultimately attended cosmetology school there. After graduating, he assisted in Dallas, followed by New York City, where his star quickly started to rise.
An early break came via the Moschino Pre-Fall 2019 runway show, for which Heller served as lead colorist alongside lead hairstylist Jimmy Paul. “That was a great experience,” Heller says. “It was a nontraditional, creative color application. I hand-painted gold body paint onto finger waves.”
Another memorable gig was a shoot for Office magazine featuring actor Evan Mock, who later tapped Heller for ongoing work on the set of the television show Gossip Girl. “I colored the hair a very unique, tennis ball-green hue,” Heller says of the Office multipage story. “More editorial bookings followed from there, and I was signed by the agency CLM as the very first hair colorist on their roster.”
Despite the success he’s had in the editorial and advertising realms, there’s no question where Heller’s focus is these days.
“About 80% of my time is spent in my salon and 20% on editorial bookings,” he says. “I have a fascination with aesthetics in that I’m intrigued and inspired by the different ways in which people present themselves in order to visually communicate with the world. Working one-on-one with people to help create their look is such a personal and intimate experience. I love bringing that vision to life with them.”
As evidenced by multiple glowing reviews, the feeling is mutual. “Impeccable attention to detail and the sweetest, coolest person,” says one happy client. “Every experience I have walked away beyond satisfied and very listened to,” says another.
Still, stellar reviews aren’t always enough to keep the bills paid, as Heller has quickly learned. “I’m responsible and mindful when it comes to money,” he says, noting that he’s self-taught on the financial front, and doesn’t currently have an advisor or mentor. Heller also doesn’t have outside investors and self-funded his salon, primarily through his work with Mock on Gossip Girl.
What Heller does have, however, is the energy to grind it out and an abundance of financial self-discipline. “I budget for monthly costs,” he says, “and also make sure that I’m saving each month, on a personal level, for the future.”
Asked about the plusses and minuses of first-time salon ownership, Heller is quick on the draw. In the plus column: freedom and control. In the minus column: a lack of work/life balance, especially at the outset.
“In the beginning, I worked thirty days straight without a day off a few times because of demand,” Heller notes. “However, I’ve now created a set schedule that works well for both my clients and myself.”
As for future goals, Heller says he wants to continue providing excellent service for his existing base, while attracting new clients. He’d also like to grow his brand identity, and within five years, launch his own product line either via a collaboration with an existing brand or independently.
But for now, Heller’s simply reveling in his cozy space on Waverly Place and happy he made the move to go out on his own.
“I felt that I had the direct, personal clientele to support this next step of having my own salon,” he says. “I really wanted to create an environment that was all my own. From the flowers to the incense, to the music—and, of course, most importantly to the service and expertise—it’s a total vibe.”