Japanese beauty giant Shiseido says it has identified a cilantro fruit extract capable of selectively eliminating senescent skin cells (aged “zombie cells”) while increasing non-senescent (healthy) skin cells, marking another step in the industry’s growing emphasis on science-backed skincare.
The discovery builds on more than two decades of the company’s skin and hair “regenerative medicine” research and reflects growing interest in applying advances from medical science to cosmetic innovation.
According to Shiseido, the extract demonstrated a dual mechanism in laboratory testing: selectively eliminating senescent fibroblasts while increasing the number of healthy fibroblasts, potentially leading to greater collagen production. Fibroblasts the cells responsible for producing collagen and maintaining skin structure. The approach differs from traditional anti-aging ingredients that primarily aim to protect or stimulate existing cells.
These dead cells accumulate with age and secrete inflammatory molecules known as SASP factors, which can accelerate tissue aging. Pharmaceutical researchers have increasingly explored senolytics—compounds designed to remove these dysfunctional cells—as a potential treatment for age-related diseases.
Shiseido believes similar principles could eventually reshape cosmetic skincare. The company said the discovery originated from hair regenerative medicine research dating back to the late 1990s, when researchers identified compounds within cilantro fruit (Coriandrum sativum) that promoted hair follicle cell growth. Further investigation found that specific fatty acids within the extract also affected dermal fibroblasts.
In laboratory studies, the company reported that the extract triggered apoptosis, or cell death, only in senescent fibroblasts while leaving healthy cells unaffected. When healthy and senescent cells were cultured together, researchers also observed reduced expression of aging markers including SA-β-Gal and P21, and increased collagen production. The increase in healthy fibroblasts was also associated with higher collagen production.
While the findings remain preclinical and have not yet been demonstrated in finished products or human studies, they underscore how beauty companies are increasingly looking beyond traditional cosmetic science toward regenerative biology and longevity research. Shiseido's latest work builds on more than two decades of investment in regenerative medicine and reflects a broader industry push to develop skincare that targets the biological processes underlying aging rather than simply treating its visible signs.