Key Takeaways:
Shiseido announced this week that it developed a new water-based (oil in water) technology that can make sunscreen products highly water-resistant by emulsifying a UV-protective film with soap-derived ingredients. The new formulation also provides relief from environmental fluctuations, such as sudden changes in humidity, which previous Shiseido studies have shown can trigger the inflammatory factor IL-1α, which leads to age spots, according to the company.
This new technology uses a soap-derived ingredient that reacts with metal ions contained in sweat and seawater, according to a company press release, forming a special structure around the coating film on the skin surface to improve water repellency and adhesion.
Consumers tend to favor water-based facial sunscreens for their lightweight, nonsticky, elegant feel. The challenge for sunscreen formulators has always been making these products water- and sweat-resistant, which requires adding UV-scattering or film-forming agents to enhance resistance. Now, without relying on these agents, the company’s new technology can form a film that is lighter than water, flexible, and crease-resistant. According to the press release, this film helps achieve a transparent finish with less white cast or stain on black clothes, while offering long-lasting water resistance and UV protection.
The formulation is also notable for its ability to respond to environmental changes. Previous Shiseido studies have shown that sudden changes in humidity (environmental shocks) trigger the production of the inflammatory cytokine IL-1α, which contributes to the development of age spots, according to the company.
“IL-1α stimulates melanocytes to produce excess melanin, which accumulates in the skin and leads to age spot formation,” according to the press release. “At the same time, it has been shown that under such environmental shocks, the stratum corneum shrinks, skin texture becomes uneven, and barrier and water-retention functions decline, making the skin more vulnerable to UV damage.” The new formula adjusts the skin's surface moisture content in response to these humidity changes, creating a comfortable skin environment, and suppresses the activation of IL-1α.
While excessive moisture is released under humid conditions, the formulation also helps skin regulate under dry conditions. In this case, moisture on the skin surface is trapped and retained, helping maintain a consistent moisture level at all times, which, in turn, is expected to inhibit IL-1α activation, according to the company.
Shiseido also “optimized the soap ingredients used in this formulation” for leave-on products, eliminating concerns about leaving behind a soapy residue.
This new technology adds to Shiseido’s portfolio of suncare innovations that address environmental concerns, like the company’s technology that increases UV protection when exposed to heat, water, or sweat.
