S/S 22 Couture Week served fresh beauty looks in abundance. From Dior’s luminous white eyeliner to Viktor & Rolf's gothic ’80s stance, BeautyMatter presents the need-to-know looks straight from the runways.
Chanel
At Paris’ Grand Palais Éphémère, Virginie Viard presented Chanel’s annual collection with heavy use of bold black eyeliner. The display kicked off with showjumper Charlotte Casiraghi on horseback, with standout beauty moments including a selection of models parading down the runway with a single smudged black glitter eye, the other decorated with a double-winged liner inspired by pre-war avant-garde artists. Following this, the remaining models sported the jet-black double wing on both eyes, with dark solid brows accompanying the look. The skin was polished with soft neutrals and glossed blush-coral lips to tie into the house's visual language of understated, classic elegance.
Credits: Virginie Viard - Designer Damien Boissinot - Hair Stylist Tom Pecheux - Makeup Artist Etienne Russo - Set Designer Aurelie Duclos - Casting Director
Dior
In contrast to Chanel’s dramatic eye looks, Dior’s models walked the floors of Musée Rodin with luminous white eyeliner, described as “more fluid, less graphic” by makeup artist Peter Philips. Supported by natural-looking skin, groomed brows, and clear balmed lips, the sleek eyeliner complemented the metallic and off-white color palette presented in the garments. Hair, styled by Guido Palau, shined freshly, whether slicked back or free-flowing. The effect of the minimal, clean hair and makeup allowed the eyeliner to illuminate the face subtly, for a simple yet statement-making touch.
Credits: Maria Grazia Chiuri - Designer Elin Svahn - Fashion Editor/Stylist Guido Palau - Hair Stylist Peter Philips - Makeup Artist Michelle Lee - Casting Director
Valentino
Pierpaolo Piccioli partnered with Pat McGrath for the beauty side of the Valentino couture show. Praised for a diverse collection of models, Piccioli’s designs were worn by men and women of different shapes, sizes, ages, and races. Painted with feline-shaped winged eyeliner, the model’s eyes were completed with black feather eyelashes, which complemented the feathered details across an array of items in the collection. Skin was glowing and visibly soft, with dark berry lipstick making an appearance in the latter half of the show. Similar to the casting, hairstyles were diverse, from fringes to middle partings, pixie cuts and cornrows, with older models embracing grey hair, styled by Guido Palau.
Credits: Pierpaolo Piccioli - Designer Joe McKenna - Fashion Editor/Stylist Guido Palau - Hair Stylist Pat McGrath - Makeup Artist Patrizia Pilotti - Casting Director
Viktor & Rolf
With a collection inspired by the Old Hollywood Dracula, Viktor & Rolf’s models took to the runway with pale makeup and bleached brows. The standout detail can be awarded to the ’80s-inspired bright-pink blush and deep burgundy lips, which created a haunting essence. Nails were overly long and coffin-shaped, which, in conjunction with the permanently shrugged high shoulders, created a vampire-like shadow on the walls. Manicurist Daniel Smedeman decorated Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren’s nails with the same protruding sharp effect, allowing the designers to take their bow from behind a curtain with their hands as the primary focus.
Credits: Viktor & Rolf - Designer Jos van Heel - Fashion Editor/Stylist Syd Hayes - Hair Stylist Lucy Bridge - Makeup Artist Adam Hindle - Casting Director Daniel Smedeman - Manicurist
Maison Georges Hobeika
Inspired by the euphoria of a first kiss, Maison Georges Hobeika presented a vibrant yet calming collection under a crisp white, domed runway. Showcasing delicately dewy skin with plump rose lips, feathery brows, and wispy eyelashes, the corresponding makeup was perfectly coordinated. Whether it was pulled away from the face or left to fall behind the shoulders, each hair style was adorned with a 1920s-style element in the form of finger waves at the front of the hair.
Credits: Georges Hobeika - Designer Patrick Sawaya - Director/Photography Bassam Fattouh - Makeup Wassim Morkos - Hair Stylist
Fendi
Kim Jones’ contribution to Couture Week was sci-fi galore. With multi-sized face gems dotted across the models’ faces, ranging from champagne to metallic silver and jet black, makeup artist Peter Philips paid homage to all things space related. A subtle pink blusher was applied to the apples of the cheekbones, creating a deep, contoured look, including gem accents along the hollows of the face. A matte approach was taken to the base makeup, contrasted with high-shine, iridescent highlighter and pearl-esque lips. The hair, styled by Guido Palau, was gelled back, almost wet looking, with a selection of model styles inspired by the likes of Joan of Arc's heavily cropped fringe.
Credits: Kim Jones - Designer Alister Mackie - Fashion Editor/Stylist Guido Palau - Hair Stylist Peter Philips - Makeup Artist Shelley Durkan - Casting Director