Beauty finds a thriving home in the Middle East: McKinsey data for MENA predicts healthy CAGR growth rates for fragrance (11%) and haircare (12%), with double digit growth across all beauty sectors from 2022 to 2027. But what about the beauty standards underlying it?
Dr Bibi Ghalaie, founder and Medical Director of Doctor Bibi Clinic on London’s famed Harley Street, pinpoints the definitive beauty aesthetic of the region as comprising almond-shaped eyes, full lips, bold brows, sharp features, and a strong hairline. “The Middle Eastern beauty aesthetic has become a mainstream and aspirational beauty ideal for both men and women globally. What is also very interesting is that, in my opinion, Middle Eastern individuals seem to know exactly how best to highlight and draw attention to their very best features, and in doing so, they complement their respective femininity or masculinity in such an elegant way,” she adds.
In terms of the procedures she sees these clients requesting the most, their genetic disposition for dark circles, caused by bone structure, loss of volume, or pigmentation, makes eye contour a popular treatment area, through use of microneedling for skin rejuvenation, filler for volume loss, chemical peels for pigmentation, and the latest injectable polynucleotides for regeneration. Lip enhancements are also popular, with patients traveling from Qatar, Kuwait, the UAE, and Oman to receive the treatment.
The Middle East has had a tumultuous and ongoing history when it comes to beauty standards. Tehran is considered the nose job capital of the world, while Dubai, home to 47 surgeons per million residents, has been termed the "plastic surgery hub” of the Middle East with the highest concentration of operating professionals. Primitive plastic surgery practices date back to 3000 BC in Persia.
Whether it’s prominent noses, coarser curls, or thicker body hair, many individuals have felt the strong pressures of conforming weigh heavily on them. This burden has been the cause of individual and artistic discourse. London-based Iranian artist Shirin Fathi captured the pressures on women to alter their appearance in the photography series “The Disobedient Nose,” while Lara Chahine’s ongoing series “Bless Your Beauty” explores how the intersections of internet culture, capitalism, religion, and Westernization created Middle Eastern beauty standards, driven by her experience of Lebanon’s booming plastic surgery industry.
Much of this was driven by the desire to conform to Western ideals, but younger generations and a bigger celebration of homegrown looks are also championing an alternative that looks inwards, rather than West. Dr Ghalaie adds, “From my experience over the last ten years in cosmetic medicine, beauty ideals in the Middle East have gone from being somewhat extreme and even unrealistic, to understated and more in line with natural beauty. A few years ago, extreme augmentations, dramatic procedures were all popularized. Whereas in the last two years, the focus has moved towards healthy skin, tweakments, baby Botox, and subtle enhancements. I believe this is partly because Middle Eastern women have undergone a reign of empowerment and are given increasing respect and consideration in their roles in society, but also because conservative attitudes toward the expression of the physical self is becoming a thing of the past, slowly but surely.”
Maintaining an ode to their heritage and a desire for more subtle shifts are testament to that change. “My patients don’t wish to look radically different; moreover, they want to look refreshed, youthful, healthy, and well rested,” Dr Ghalaie comments. Noninvasive treatments (skin boosters, mesotherapy, and chemical peels) and high-tech skin procedures are helping them get results without needing to resort to drastic measures, she notes, and that through online education, many are honing in on the ingredients and treatments that can help them achieve the skin clarity and texture they desire.
A 2019 study across 17 plastic surgeons and dermatologists in the region, led by Mohamed Khater, Global Medical Director for Swedish skincare company Galderma Uppsala, found that Middle Eastern women seeking plastic surgery were most likely to desire full lips; a well-defined jaw; full cheeks; a small, straight nose; and prominent chin. Oval/round faces (especially in the UAE), elevated eyebrows and almond-shaped eyes (particularly in the MENA region) were also preferred. In terms of historical references, ancient Egyptian Queen Nefertiti was cited as a visual influence, as were the “Cinderella of Arab cinema” Soad Hosny and Princess Soraya Esfandiari-Bakhtiari. Modern-day beauty idols are Saudi Princess Ameera Al-Taweel, Angelina Jolie, Lebanese actress Nadine Njeim, and Queen Rania of Jordan.
“Even sub-regions have their own specific characteristics when it comes to beauty,” Dr Khater, adds. “It is because of different facial anthropometry and genetics.” Interestingly enough, he also adds that the beauty standards of today mimic the features of Middle Eastern women, hence Jolie’s placement of influence in an otherwise native lineup.
In a 2021 study published in The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology conducted across 178 participants, 91% of which were female and 58% of which were 19-21 years old, it was found that 63% see cosmetic procedures as slowly being accepted in UAE society, while 20% felt it was frowned upon.
A 2023 report by Chalhoub Group, Decoding the Beauty Consumer in the GCC, surveying over 2,600 beauty consumers reported a shift towards finding an Arabic beauty ideal rather than trying to conform to European standards, and a desire for the products that help them highlight their features best. Huda Kattan, an international presence on the beauty scene as both a brand founder and influencer, is termed as a proponent of Middle Eastern beauty, although she has also been open about her use of fillers, Botox, and a rhinoplasty.
In terms of the products used in the region, neutral shades of eyeshadow and lipliner, felt tip liquid eyeliner, and sheer lipsticks are popular products. BB creams are gaining popularity over full-coverage foundations as shoppers invest more into their skincare routine for a flawless complexion. Women in the Gulf region have an average monthly spend of $52 on skincare and $63 on makeup.
Gen Z is a key proponent in the movement towards highlighting heritage and inclusivity, rather than feeling pressured to conform to Western ideals. In a 2023 Fast Company article Prachi Bishnoi, founder and Chief Creative Officer of digital marketing agency Glomm, states, “Their global exposure fosters brand awareness; they embrace diverse cultures, promoting fusion in lifestyle choices. This generation’s influence extends to local markets, introducing international brands and trends, reshaping the region’s cultural and economic landscape.”
The ongoing dialogues enabled through social media, and a vast sea of influencers representing all types of Middle Eastern beauty on these platforms, are also pushing the tides forward. As much as the very same platforms can also be seen as perpetuating Westernized beauty standards, at least the dialogue is diversifying. As the beauty industry as a whole flourishes in the region—with more homegrown brands created to offer further representation and international brands considerate of the models they use to speak to their audiences—the future is likely to see a continued discussion, be it online or visual, of the Middle East’s beauty ideals.
