The SS/23 Couture Fashion Week saw an abundance of awe-inspiring makeup that was a reminder of the most frivolous periods in recent history. Vibrant blush time-traveled from the '80s onto catwalks. Meanwhile, black lipstick brought out a dramatic, dark romanticism to collections, and matte looks were traded in for high-shine hues.
Giambattista Valli
Giambattista Valli treated the audience to a spectacle of voluptuous gowns in sugar pinks, mint sorbets, and zesty oranges floating down the runway. However, what was an even more delicious sight were the luminous beauty looks on display. Applying white shadow and pearlescent highlighter on cheeks, brow bones, eyelids, and cupid bows made them as shiny as a freshly glazed donut. Makeup artist Isamaya Ffrench found inspiration for the looks from the glamor and elegance of Beverly Hills in the 1950s. This period was also reflected in the kitschy, bow-shaped updos and stereotypically feminine flowers in an array of colors and sizes in the models' hair.
Valentino
Set in the Paris underground Bridge Club, Valentino’s SS/23 couture collection celebrated ’80s club kid culture with an array of beauty looks created by makeup master Pat McGrath. Reminiscent of the New Romantics movement, fuchsia traveled from cheekbones onto eyelids in the style of Visage front man Steve Strange and was paired with venomous berry and black lacquered lips. Some models' eyes were painted with thick, black liner and brows were plucked into skinny arches. The hair varied from slicked back to tousled waves with stand-out styles, including a hot pink mohawk and a Debbie Harry-esque shag of blonde and black strands.
Dior
This season saw Dior paying homage to legendary cabaret performer Josephine Baker, with hairstylist Guido Palau fashioning protective braids into vintage-style waves. Models had hair gelled into Baker’s signature kiss curls, a style that popularized baby hairs in the '20s. The models’ skin was left barefaced to emphasize exaggerated, smudged, smokey eyes and bushy brows.
Miss Sohee
Couture newcomer Miss Sohee paired glittering gowns with good-girl-gone-grunge style beauty looks. Makeup artist Bea Sweet worked solely with KVD Beauty products to create an array of striking looks that seemed to follow the concept of “more is more.” Pink blush blended up into eyelids creating ombres of pink, brown, and gold glitter. Meanwhile a variety of deep red and jet black Everlasting Hyperlight liquid lipstick was thickly layered onto pouts in a bold fashion reminiscent of Courtney Love in her heyday. Hair varied from slicked back to choppy lobs and mussed up manes.
Chanel
Often associated with classic French fashion, the brand stuck to its roots with makeup artist Lisa Butler painting pouts in high-shine shades of an all-so-familiar color, red. Bow ties and top hats provided a playful twist on typical gender roles, contrasting with the pretty, plaid dresses and the feminine feel of the makeup. Lips were left to do the talking while bare lashes and pale pink blush took a visual back seat. Hairstylist James Pecis kept styles simple, giving models either flowing, soft waves or long, loose plaits to capture the feeling of warm summer days.