The ingredient world is working hard to back up neuro claims, advance cellular and permeation activities, and carve out a sustainable yet engaging future for the beauty market.

And with five key areas of ingredient innovation identified for 2025, there's a lot set to shift in beauty over the coming years.

The global beauty and personal care market hit $593 billion last year—up 7% on 2023 in real terms and up 2.9% with inflation stripped away—with a CAGR forecast at 6% for 2024-2029 (or 0.5% without inflation), according to Euromonitor International. This growth is anticipated despite “the global economy being fairly unsteady,” explained Emilie Hood, Consultant for Beauty and Consumer Health at Euromonitor, because consumers—now in a state of permacrisis—are starting to ignore financial concerns and allow themselves a “little bit more financial freedom.”

So, as the lipstick effect holds strong, what kind of innovations can we expect to propel beauty growth? And what areas are building momentum in 2025? BeautyMatter hit the show floor at industry's biggest global beauty ingredients tradeshow last week—In-Cosmetics 2025 in Amsterdam—to track the most important supply-side movements and innovations expected to shape the future of beauty.

Brains: Neuro-Boosting Beauty

Last year, neurocosmetics entered as a buzz word in beauty. And according to Hood, neuroscents—particularly those carrying stress relief claims—have already been disruptive in fragrances over the past year or so. But this year, ingredient suppliers are firmly backing neurocosmetic actives, largely for topical use.

“We are still at the very start; the beginning point,” said Mark Huang, CEO and founder of Taiwanese cosmetic ingredient supplier ImDerma Laboratories.

His company has just launched an essential oil blend ArMorpheus that targets specific brain waves to help relaxation and improve sleep. Developed in partnership with a research institute and college for skincare topicals, sprays, candles, and haircare products, trial findings show the blend increases alpha brainwave signals linked to relaxation by around 7% while decreasing beta brainwave signals linked to wakefulness by around 50%.

But as neuro-boosting beauty settles firmly in, Huang said advances will require “very solid scientific proof.” “... Before, it was difficult for people to find a link between neuro and beauty,” he explained, but as technology has advanced—particularly AI and sensor tools—companies are now starting to be able to prove the influence beauty ingredients have on mental health, as well as skin health.

Robin Cordier, EMEA Marketing Manager at Croda Beauty, agreed neurocosmetic efficacy is increasingly critical as the category grows to ultimately replace holistic beauty, which can now be considered “outdated.”

“We have a brand new method where we are basically looking at being able to measure the neurocosmetic aspects on the go—outside the lab—to be able to measure [efficacy] in real life, instead of just in the lab where there are just a few conditions that can be tested,” Cordier explained. The goal at Croda Beauty, he said, is to assess on-the-go neuro-boosting capabilities not only on newly launched ingredients—the likes of Zenakine, which can boost melatonin production for better sleep and serenity—but also existing hero products and bestsellers so the company can offer “a big portfolio in a short time.”

And testing, he said, will become even more relevant as regulations and certifications in neurocosmetics develop. “I won't be surprised if a few labels, a few certifications, come along. This is something to be expected. And I also expect consumers to favor these kinds of products for the many benefits they can bring; brands will have to adapt.”

Raphäelle Brunet-Tron, European Marketing Manager at Active Concepts, said innovation around beauty tools and devices in this space should also be expected. “We see a trend that people are quite attracted to tools, so maybe there will be more of a relationship between the tools and the beauty products to emphasize neurocosmetic benefits,” Brunet-Tron added.

Scientifically, there is also plenty happening around the brain-skin axis, she added, so as new findings surface, these can be increasingly shared with consumers—via the likes of devices and tools.

Active Concepts has conducted a series of studies on its newly launched AC WonderShroom—an active blend of nootropic white tea and adaptogen mushrooms for topicals—that shows the complex protects and enhances cellular energy and mental vitality by augmenting beta brain waves linked to alertness and focus. “It's kind of like a Red Bull for the skin—it's really focusing on emphasizing the link between the skin and the mind.” And consumers increasingly want to see these effects in beauty products, she said.

Cells: Next-Gen Exosomes

This year, ingredient developers are also sharply focused on exosomes—nano extracellular vesicles crucial in cell-to-cell communication—with plenty of innovations around flower, microalgae, and plant stem cell exosomes targeting wound healing, skin regeneration, SPF protection and more. According to Nikola Matic, VP of Chemicals and Materials Research at Kline + Company, exosomes is certainly a buzz word among suppliers looking to enhance ingredient efficacy and advance delivery systems.

“Exosomes are a huge topic in the world today, not only in cosmetics but also in the dermatological fields,” said Cornelia Schürch, Managing Director of Mibelle AG Biochemistry and executive board member at Mibelle Group. “So, to tackle this kind of delivery system is quite exciting.”

The major benefit of working with exosomes in beauty, she said, is the cell-to-cell communication and the possibility of triggering interesting cell responses—making a cell produce things like collagen or elastins, for example. Mibelle Chemistry has just launched a dual function PhytoCellTec Exosomes, which delivers plant stem cell-derived exosomes from goji berries into the skin to trigger exosome production by mesenchymal stem cells within the skin, increasing collagen and elastin expression. “The plant stem cell technology is not new, but the exosomal topic put on top is quite new, so we had to investigate a little bit further,” she said.

Pierre-Yves Morvan, R&D Director at CODIF Technologie naturelle, said exosomes in beauty will likely develop much how the skin microbiome has—building momentum fast and staying strong over time—because it is clearly “not just a trend.”

While the first exosome was described back in 1960, Morvan said many variants have since been developed—from human cells, plant cells, algae cells, and even bacteria. CODIF Technologie naturelle developed its marine-based exosome Phormiskin Exosome from a blue microalgae, he said. It contains one billion exosomes per mililiter of active ingredient, alongside thioredoxin proteins that can stimulate thioredoxin production of the skin to improve protection against environmental stressors, notably UV rays.

Looking ahead, Morvan said understanding around which cells can communicate with one another and what signals can be sent will be exciting for beauty. "We already know, for example, that keratinocytes can communicate to fibroblasts and melanocytes, sending a range of signals from protection through to regeneration," he said.

Even more exciting for beauty will be use of these exosomes as a type of cargo system—protecting and delivering something within the exosome itself, either produced naturally by cells or added in—to penetrate targeted ingredients even deeper into the skin. “It's a little bit like an Uber; you put something inside and you can send something from one cell to another cell.” Safety, however, will have to remain a priority, he said, ensuring knowledge around cell communication and signaling is well understood.

Korean firm CHA Meditech has developed a patented probiotic-derived exosome complex—from bacteria—using kimchi, mushrooms, and the cica plant to improve skin health through immunity support, reduce pigmentation, and strengthen overall skin barrier.  The blend is considered very safe for cosmetics because lactic acid bacteria is already found inside the body, explained Sun-Young Yoon, Assistant General Manager and Biosciences Researcher at CHA Meditech—“it's very familiar to our bodies.”

Because it's from plant origin but also a probiotic, Yoon said the complex offers a lot of bioactive compounds that make for “some very good effects.”

While plant-derived exosomes remain the go-to for beauty today—largely due to cosmetic regulations in most of the world—CHA Meditech's General Manager Jake Kim said interest will likely turn to human-derived exosomes soon, though, for now, these are largely reserved for medical and pharmaceutical use.

Touch: Sensorial Sustainability

Still firmly on the agenda for beauty suppliers is sustainability—a topic that is now a critical, non-negotiable for consumers worldwide, according to Andrew McDougall, Director of Beauty Research at Mintel. But this year, sensory properties are in the spotlight across green cosmetics as formulation advances catch up to match brand and consumer expectations.

“Sensoriality has always been there; what has been changing the game over the last few years is the sustainability driver,” said Bénédicte Courel, General Manager Cosmetics Business at Roquette Beauté. A push for naturality, in particular, Courel said, created many sensorial challenges for suppliers because the behaviors, technical function, and science behind natural ingredients are “much more complex than synthetics.”

And while the beauty market has always centered around sensations and emotions, this has become even more key as consumers focus more on well-being and self-care, she said. “We see the combination—the merging and crossover—between how we care for ourselves, treat ourselves, but also take care of the planet. We can see these are really two trends coming together.”

Roquette Beauté has worked to tap into this merge, she said, launching its latest starch structure Beauté by Roquette ST 305—a soft, extra-fine powder made from waxy corn offering mattifying and pigment-carrying effects for color cosmetics—after more than five years of development. “If we focus on sustainability, we have to do it right and it requires a lot of research, a lot of investment,” Courel said.

Lucie Fontaine-Banckaert, Product Manager for Functional Ingredients and Delivery Systems at Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant, agreed suppliers are certainly stepping up around sustainability, biodegradability, and traceability—ensuring sensoriality keeps up.

“We don't choose between sustainability and sensoriality, we adapt,” Fontaine-Banckaert said. The company's newly launched Pickmulse emulsifier is one example of that, she said, given the close work alongside Bolivian quinoa farmers to improve agricultural practices and social impact of the ingredient. Meanwhile, lab work has enabled the development of a very soft, powdery blend that can improve the overall sensory experience of final formulas, she said.

“Now, there is no longer, or at least less of an issue, around sensoriality with greener products,” she said. “For brands, I think now it's good news to see we have answers to the questions.”

Matic from Kline + Company said a lot of the true sustainability advances from suppliers have been achieved “thanks to big improvements in biotech.”

Nature: Marine Protectors

Continuing the environmental theme, many ingredient majors are also diving deeper into marine-based ingredients, particularly for their protective and multifunctional properties. Microalgae extracts, fermented seaweeds, and marine ceramides are being put forward to offer skin barrier strengthening, promote wound healing, reduce inflammation, improve hydration, and provide protection against environmental stressors like UV.

“The ocean is the most underexplored area in the world, so we have many opportunities to create more actives,” said Juan Pablo De la Roche Cadavid, CEO of MC Actives.

And what is especially exciting in the world of ocean sourcing, the CEO said, is the ability to develop multiple ingredients from singular raw materials, and more importantly, multifunctional ingredients. “A mix of different effects in the same active, from my point of view, is the perfect product for cosmetics.”

The promise behind being able to actually cultivate these raw materials to extract molecules at scale, he added, is also key. MC Actives has developed a marine-based ceramide Oceamides from cultivated microalgae origin, offering not only skin barrier protection but also action against skin fatigue and the ability to improve hydration.

Looking ahead, he said there is great potential in investigating the bacteriostatic properties of marine-based ingredients—adding to the plethora of already proven benefits—not only for cosmetics but also nutraceuticals and pharmaceuticals. There is also be plenty of excitement around new molecule discoveries, Pablo De la Roche Cadavid said.

Charlotte Vignal, laboratory supervisor at Natura-Tec, agreed the quest for new ocean raw materials will be key for blue beauty innovation.

“The future is definitely in discovering new species, because we only use a few strains and we have so many,” Vignal said. There are so many incredible molecules to be found in marine species, she explained, from polyunsaturated fatty acids and polysaccharides, to sterols, phenols, and flavonoids—each bringing different values to cosmetic formulations.

Natura-Tec homed in on sterols, for example, with its active ingredient SeaWonder made from a blend of Scottish microalgae particularly high in cholesterol, alongside Kalahari watermelon seed oil. The high concentration of cholesterol in the microalgae, she explained, is associated with skin restoration and helping the function of the epidermal barrier during healing.

Future innovations with new marine-based raw materials will require a sharp focus on extraction processes, however, which continue to be a challenge for industry alongside yield, she said. Biotechnology advances should help here, she added, enabling on-site, controlled production of molecules.

Biotech: Hyaluronic Acid 2.0

And biotech advances are already taking other beauty molecules forward—hero ingredients that have long been center stage. Hyaluronic Acid (HA), for example, is once again in the spotlight, this time, as a smarter version of its old self.

“We've been working for a few years now on, I would say, revolutionizing the production process of hyaluronic acid,” said Mathias Fleury, Head of Actives at Givaudan Beauty.

Taking things beyond the traditional fermentation process, the company is working with strain engineering specialist Alderys that Givaudan acquired five years ago to push ahead with “precision fermentation,” Fleury said, enabling production of HA at a desired molecular weight, more sustainably. And now, it has launched PrimalHyal UltraReverse, an HA with a molecular weight of less than 3,000 diatons which activates “lots of different biological pathways in the skin to act at a cellular level to reverse aging,” he said.

Givaudan and wider industry, he said, has been innovating in hyaluronic acid for decades but this new production process demonstrates there is “still room for this molecule.” “... There are still plenty of things to come up with, and we are convinced it's a trend that will still be here in decades,” Fleury said.

Looking ahead, it will be interesting to explore low molecular HA weights and build on improving green chemistry principles behind the ingredient, he said, but there is also great promise in working out “clever combinations with reference molecules.” This won't just be blends, he said, but smart associations with other molecules that could offer new performance benefits and ultimately create “a whole new story for HA in the future.”

Rafael Laske, International Sales Lead at Nanovetores, said innovation around HA molecular weight is certainly an exciting angle for industry and a direction set to carve out a strong future for the ingredient. But Laske said encapsulation, particularly of higher molecular weight HA, is another interesting direction to spotlight.

Nanovetores, for example, has nanoencapsulated a high molecular weight HA NV Hyaluronic Acid ECO using a biopolymeric capsule—offering enhanced filling because of the HA's molecular size but better permeation because of the encapsulation. “We are able to reach deeper layers of the skin, improve hydration on the skin's surface, and also reduce the wrinkles from within deeper layers,” he said.

While hyaluronic acid has been established in beauty for a long time, Laske said beauty brands still want new ways to work with this ingredient and will continue to do so for some time.

Kline + Co's Matic said HA will maintain momentum following the current boom in aesthetic procedures. “You will find some of the very popular active ingredients like HA taking advantage of the fact it's used in invasive procedures but also that it's a good compliment to it. HA is an active ingredient that has been present for a long time, but it's repositioning itself to this trend,” he told attendees during the In-Cosmetics 2025 presentation.