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Trend Supply Side Technology Sustainability

The Ingredient Launches Future-Proofing Formulas

Published April 23, 2024
Carla Seipp
Published April 23, 2024
Trend Supply Side Technology Sustainability
Innomost

Ingredients (alongside an original idea) are the building blocks of innovation. The manufacturers creating them are giving brands the tools for creating the exciting products of tomorrow. In the following roundup, BeautyMatter highlights the newest actives and hero materials.

Whether it’s human DNA-derived collagen, actives with solar benefits, or upcycled pine cone derivatives to boost hair strands—inclusivity, sustainability, and biotech remain important touchpoints.

Skin

Rejuvinem

Manufacturer: Edge Foods

What it is: Recombinant fibroblast conditioned media product made from non-animal, mammalian proteins derived from human DNA produced using green, clean, and sustainable methods and a cell secretome plus growth factors combination.

Claims: 

  • Supports skin’s own collagen production
  • Stimulates regeneration of healthy skin cells
  • Promotes skin repair, healing, elasticity, firmness
  • Supports scar reduction and DNA repair
  • Reduces the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines

PrimalHyal 50 Life

Manufacturer: Givaudan Active Beauty

What it is: The most sustainable low molecular weight hyaluronic acid in Givaudan’s portfolio, made using strain engineering and precision fermentation. 

Claims: 

  • A 91% reduction in environmental impact in production methods
  • Skin penetration up to 120 µm
  • Upped skin hydration for almost 72 hours post-application
  • 66% skin roughness reduction in one month of use

Melasyl

Manufacturer: L’Oréal Groupe

What it is: A molecule to address localized pigmentation issues created through 18 years of research.

Claims: 

  • Works inclusively across all skin tones (determined across tests involving 121 scientific studies)
  • Provides a more even skin tone and reduces post-acne marks and dark spots

Col-4-Frag Remastered

Manufacturer: LipoTrue

What it is: A biomimetic wild plant-derived collagen IV fragment.

Claims:  

  • Helps form interdigitations in the dermoepidermal junction of the collagen IV network, resulting in firmer skin with fewer wrinkles and dark spots

Calisensix

Manufacturer: LipoTrue 

What it is: Derived from tomato stem cells and white willow bark using Greenology technology.

Claims: 

  • Resolves neurogenic inflammation to help calm sensitive skin

Savelite

Manufacturer: Symrise

What it is: A clear, colorless, oderless biodegradable multifunctional hydroxypropolyester liquid built on propanediol and benzoic acid molecules.

Claims: 

  • Protects from oxidation
  • Moisturization (in vivo corneometer testing showed an increase of 10.9% after two weeks)
  •  Antimicrobial
  • Cold-processable
  • Microbiome-friendly
  • Stabilizes emulsion by reducing oil droplet size
  • Produced through a sustainable manufacturing process and green chemistry principles

JuniperBright

Manufacturer: Ichimaru Pharcos

What it is: A brightening ingredient extracted from juniper berries.

Claims:  

  • Improves skin clarity and transparency of skin cells without controlling melanin
  • Promotes proteasome and autophagy activities
  • Prevents the formation of the aging pigment lipofuscin

Ecohance Soft Baobab

Manufacturer: Evonik

What it is: A baobab oil sustainably sourced from the Sahel region in Ghana for emollient use.

Claims:  

  • Sourced through a newly built supply chain, in cooperation with the United Nations Convention to Combat Desertification (UNCCD) and with certification by FairWild Foundation
  • Optimized amount/ratio of triglycerides, cyclopropeonic fatty acids, and tocopherol

Neuroglow

Manufacturer: Givaudan Active Beauty

What it is: An active courtesy of green fractionation of the Persicaria tinctoria (a flowering plant of the buckwheat family) aiming to replicated the positive effects of the sun.

Claims: 

  • Stimulates production of melanin by 126% and the release of oxytocin by 229%, bet-endorphin by 43%, and vitamin D by 345%
  • Prepares the skin for sun exposure
  • Prevents potential inflammatory sun damage
  • In a clinical trial, the ingredient reduced tiredness, fatigue, and winter blues in 80% of volunteers
  • Another clinical trial saw 76% of participants move to a darker photoype in seven days

Illuminyl 388

Manufactuer: Givaudan Active Beauty

What it is: A biotech-enhanced molecule obtained through cell-free glycosylation (the enzymatic reaction-activated process where carbohydrates attach to a protein backbone) using the epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) compound (an antioxidant) found in green tea.

Claims:

  • Targets multiple skin pigmentation pathways simultaneously across a variety of skin types
  • Clinical studies across 200 volunteers of India, African, Asian, and Caucasian skin tones found that in two weeks skin radiance, tone, and luminosity improved, while pigmentation spots were reduced in one month. Further benefits reported included a reduction in age spots and a more even skin tone.
  • Unique bioavailability and deep skin penetration due to absorption via cellular glucose receptors
  • Stimulates the skin microflora’s in-situ release of a niacin-derivative

Fragrance

Nympheal

Manufacturer: Givaudan

What it is: An aroma molecule with a white floral profile akin to muguet and linden blossom.

Claims: 

  • Biodegradable
  • Developed according to the Principles of Green Chemistry, in line with a Safe-by-Design approach

Euphorion

Manufacturer: Eurofragrance

What it is: A synthetic captive designed to evoke wellbeing, optimism and joy through a green aroma profile.

Claims: 

  • Combines natural freshness with long lasting sillage
  • Intensifies the scent of aromatic materials
  • Has an umami-like facet
  • Accentuates green aspects of fruity notes
  • Brings out a greener note in fougère compositions
  • Adds aromatic intensity to leather notes.

Hair

PinoPlex

Manufacturer: Mibelle Biochemistry

What it is: An upcycled ingredient made from hand-harvested pine cones in the French forests, inspired by the opening and closing of their scales depending on weather.

Claims: 

  • Moisturizes hair shaft
  • Evens out hair cuticles
  • Prevents split ends and improves hair fiber integrity 
  • Supports keratinocyte differentiation in the hair matrix for healthier and stronger hair

Personal Care

Betuinno.Betulin

Manufacturer: Innomost

What it is: A sustainable ingredient made from upcycled birch bark to replace synthetic white pigments, acting as an alternative to titanium dioxide.

Claims: 

  • Suitable across a wide range of consumer products from sunscreen (in combination with non-nano zinc oxide) to cosmetics and toothpaste
  • Biodegradable and vegan
  • Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties to promote skin health
  • Largely anti-allergenic

Spectrastat CHA

Manufacturer: Inolex

What it is: A coconut-derived, 100% natural chelating agent in powder form.

Claims: 

  • Broad spectrum preservation system utilizing hurdle technology for a wide pH range of cosmetics
  • Sustainably derived source of caprylhydroxamic acid which remains effective at neutral pH
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