The entire beauty ecosystem descended on Hong Kong for Cosmoprof Asia 2023. The joint venture between BolognaFiere Group and Informa Markets returned after a three-year hiatus to its hometown, Hong Kong, continuing a 26-year track record of success. More than 2,400 exhibitors from 44 countries and over 60,000 attendees gathered for four days of B2B meetings, networking events, and educational updates.
One of the highlights of the show is the ongoing collaboration with Beautystreams and the release of the CosmoTrends Report showcasing product innovation and notable brands among the exhibitors of Cosmoprof Asia 2023.
The Beautystreams CosmoTrends
Full Cell Ahead taps into the skin-regenerating properties of epidermal growth factors (EGFs), driving a compelling chapter in science-led skincare.
Cieskin Derma G Essence (South Korea) is formulated with GF-9 growth factors, peptides, and spicules—microneedle-like structures derived from sponges to help the product penetrate the skin to deliver egeneration.
Egfology EGF R3 Ampoule Mist (South Korea) is developed for professional use after aesthetic or laser treatments. The product contains a proprietary active they claim matches 99% of the structure and function of human EGF and is recognized by Korea’s Ministry of Food and Drug Safety, with double functional cosmetic certification for wrinkle improvement and whitening.
Hans Pharma Klardie Scalp Repair Cellup Ampoule (South Korea) uses USF 71, a patented human umbilical stem cell culture developed by Hans Pharma, that contains more than 71 complex growth factors combined with Scalpfree-05 complex, salicylic acid, menthol, and panthenol. Together, these ingredients strengthen the hair follicle, are said to enhance the growth of new hair, and nourish the hair and scalp.
Dermaesthetics Beverly Hills UV Shield: EGF FGF DNA Sun Protection (USA) uses EGF alongside FGF (fibroblast growth factors), which offer multichain amino acid and nutrient delivery throughout the skin’s layers, as well as sodium deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA) for cell recovery and rehabilitation. With SPF 47+ broadspectrum/PA+++ protection, the facial sunscreen claims to shield, protect, and rehabilitate the skin.
Exo-Max harnesses the healing power of exosomes described as emerging bioactive substances with enormous potential as therapeutic and cosmetic ingredients. Acting as messengers in the body when used in skincare, exosomes are said to promote cell regeneration, enhancing the skin’s innate healing capacity, while their small size enables other actives to penetrate the skin’s layers.
Eleven Huesday (TMC KOREA) Despot Exo-Bright Corrector (South Korea) was developed to correct dark spots around the eyes and wrinkles around the mouth using Rosa damascena callus extracellular vesicles obtained using exosome technology. The serum also contains tranexamic acid, niacinamide, and Polydeoxyribonucleotied (PDRN) to promote cell regeneration, milk protein to improve elasticity, and ceramides for moisture.
Dermafirm CICAA.C Range (South Korea) uses exosomes extracted from Centella asiatica with patented technology and blended with Centella asiatica leaf extract to power the products targeting acne-prone skin. The formulas have anti-inflammatory effects on the skin, while soothing and delivering regenerative results.
Lecelique (Salty Family Group Co., Ltd) Intensive Facial Cream (South Korea) is formulated with a blend of saxiline exosome, derived from the alpine plant saxifrage, and pro-xylane, a sugar-derived ingredient, created to address aging concerns, from promoting skin firmness to restoring elasticity. The cream also contains Swiss glacier water and Alps Gold Lock Complex (Alprose O, marigold flower extract,horse chestnut bark bio extract), along with Black Bee Ome, a black bee honey ferment that restores skin’s natural microflora and its skin barrier.
Raskin Subtle Point Aquasome(South Korea) is a treatment product formulated with an exosome base, to provide instant moisture while improving the skin barrier and strengthening the extracellular matrix, increasing skin resilience and tone. The serum also contains arnica, colloidal gold, and senolytics, all encapsulated in a modified spherosome (encapsulation technology).
All Clear taps into the cross-generational desire for flawless, clear skin. Whether it’s dealing with hyperpigmentation and dark spots, red patches, or acne and large pores, the holy grail for consumers is clear skin. Enter products that promote skin clarity and employ a myriad of ingredients to counter these concerns.
Reblocell Glossom Serum (South Korea) is intended to combat freckled and blemished skin. Containing four parts per million EGF, and composed of just nine ingredients, the serum stimulates skin cell generation and enhances skin elasticity. It also acts to reduce moisture loss by a factor of 2.2 and reduce pore volume by a factor of 16.9.
Cos Therapy LHA LALA Peel (Hong Kong) is a peeling product intended for use in salons that not only promotes epidermal renewal but acts to “fill” and strengthen the skin. Calling itself a “fourth-generation peeling product,” the formula contains LHA, or lipo hydroxy acid, which is gentler on the skin than other commonly used acids.
Youth Lab Dark Spot Remover Serum (Greece) is a serum to prevent and reduce the look of dark spots from stubborn brown patches and post-acne marks, discoloration, to uneven tone. Its ingredients include a biomimetic peptide that treats melasma breaking down melanosomes while inhibiting melanosome uptake into keratinocytes of the epidermis. The formula also contains tranexamic acid, stabilized vitamin C, glycolic acid, and turmeric root extract. A clinical study conducted at the University of Athens saw 70% of those who used it saw a reduction of the look of dark spots in one month, with dark spots reduced by 35%.
Lira Clinical PRO Brite-Plus Serum (USA) manages pigmentation throughout the melanin production process by combining tranexamic and ferulic acids with the ingredient gMASQ-tech, to brighten and tone while preventing future dark spots. The ingredients “target skin malfunction, minimize pore appearance, manage melanin production, and protect against oxidative stress,” the company says.
Returnu Pore Shooter Toner (South Korea) a product that includes patented F6B, an ingredient that reportedly reduces sebum secretion by 116.03% after two weeks of use, which in turn helps to reduce the appearance of large pores. The formula also contains persimmon tree leaf, niacinamide, and hyaluronic acid.
Temp Setters speaks to product development, upping the sensorial factor with heating and cooling effects. A product experience is crucial to its appeal and helps enhance skincare's self-care positioning with innovations that heat on contact with the skin, or enhance the active ingredients’ effect with heating or cooling qualities.
Technature Heating Cleansing Stick (France), composed of just eight ingredients, creates a warming sensation that has a soothing effect on the skin. In addition to the sensorial experience, the warming effect opens the pores for deeper cleansing. The anhydrous formula creates a milky emulsion that hydrates the skin as it cleanses and removes makeup.
Skindaum Real Heating Eye Mask (South Korea) is composed of two, separate eye-shaped sheets with one that creates a heating effect. The heated layer sits over a hydrogel eye mask, delivering active ingredients more effectively. The product is formulated with Japanese white birch juice, sodium hyaluronate, acetyl hexapeptide-8, and a seven-berry extract complex. The heating patch contains natural volcanic soil from Korea’s Jeju island, to promote blood circulation around the eyes. The mask supplies moisture, reduces dark circles and wrinkles, and is effective against dry eye syndrome.
Amoreve Jelly Pop Mask (South Korea) uses the company’s Naked Bio Cellulose material, derived from coconut using fermentation technology. This sheet mask lowers the skin’s temperature by five to seven degrees upon application for a soothing effect. Capsule packaging preserves ingredients like salicylic acid and eggplant fruit extract, which nourish the skin while absorbing pollutants and excess sebum.
MESAblue Refreshing Blue Gel (South Korea) is formulated for facial and body skin. This gel cools the skin with this anti-inflammatory effect, making it ideal for use after aesthetic treatments or soothing sunburnt skin. Among the ingredients are guaiazulene combined with the brand’s Active-C ingredient, Centella asiatica, ceramides, and vitamin B5 derivatives.
Lindsay&Cos Cool Tea Tree Modeling Mask Pack (South Korea) has cooling properties and is intended to maintain skin health over the year, providing moisture in dry, winter weather and intense cooling for skin in the hot summer months. The mask is composed of alginate extracted from seaweed, combined with diatomaceous earth, mixed with water or a gel essence, and applied to the skin.
Tech, Stretched beyond the face is a trend that speaks to high-tech devices that treat wrinkles on the hands, IPL hair removal tailored to different skin tones, and brush-like gadgets that can treat scalp conditions.
Vitaminled Cell-Regen LED (South Korea) This device brings the benefits of light therapy to hand care, employing 660nm red LED and 850nm near-infrared, chosen because the body best absorbs them. The device’s light therapy penetrates both the dermal layer and subcutaneous tissue, improving the appearance of wrinkles on the hands.
T.I.P. International Dr. Mallife (South Korea) device focuses on scalp preventing hair loss caused by seborrheic scalp inflammation to maintain a healthy scalp and hair with a brush-style device that makes product use intuitive. The device uses three modes—violet LED, which addresses seborrheic scalp inflammation caused by Malassezia yeasts, which can result in itchy skin; microcurrent technology to strengthen hair follicle cells; and cooling technology that reduces “scalp fever.”
Eosika IPL Hair Removal (South Korea) is created with an auto skin tone sensor that adjusts the IPL’s energy levels automatically to suit each unique skin tone. Hair removal on darker skin tones requires specific care, as darker skin retains heat for longer, and there is a risk of the treatment inducing hyperpigmentation. The device employs AMP, or advanced multipulse technology, traditionally used in a professional environment. The AMP technology means the IPL light flashes three separate times, so the temperature of the hair remains high, while the skin cools, reducing the potential for skin damage.
