When Maybelline New York officially launched its presence in Africa, it wasn’t just another international beauty brand expanding its footprint, but a strategic move that recognized Africa’s immense potential as a beauty powerhouse.

The continent, home to a diverse beauty industry, has arguably been an underserved market for global cosmetics giants. Now, with dedicated strategies tailored to key African markets, Maybelline New York is rapidly scaling its business, capturing consumers across multiple regions, and redefining its brand positioning to meet local needs.

Recognizing the potential of the African beauty industry, L’Oréal—the parent company of Maybelline—restructured its operations in 2021 to establish a dedicated Sub-Saharan Africa division. This move allowed for a more tailored marketing and commercial strategy, distinct from the broader Middle East Africa region in which it was previously grouped.

Market Focus: Where Maybelline New York Is Finding Growth

The African beauty industry has evolved into one of the most dynamic and rapidly growing markets worldwide. “African women are really into makeup—much more than in Europe or even the US,” Issima Oniangue, General Manager for makeup and interbeauty consumer products brands (CPG) at L’Oréal’s Sub-Saharan Africa division, told BeautyMatter. “Makeup is an essential part of their routine, from a simple product to a full-glam look.”

This enthusiasm for makeup, coupled with increasing purchasing power among segments of the population, has made the continent a highly attractive market. Historically, African consumers have had limited access to global beauty brands, often relying on international travel or parallel importers like Beauty Hut Africa and retail giants to get their favorite products. With Maybelline New York now directly operating in Africa, the brand is not just increasing accessibility, but tailoring its strategy to regional nuances, ensuring it resonates with consumers from Nigeria to South Africa and beyond.

Maybelline’s African business is divided into three major regions—Southern Africa, East Africa, and West and Central Africa. In Southern and East Africa, the company has established a strong subsidiary presence, whereas in West and Central Africa, Maybelline operates through a distribution model. “Nigeria and South Africa are our two biggest markets, but we are also seeing strong potential in Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda, Ivory Coast, and Senegal,” Oniangue explained.

While South Africa benefits from a well-structured retail ecosystem—including prominent drugstores such as Clicks and Dis-Chem—Nigeria presents a different retail environment, where independent beauty retailers and hypermarkets like SPAR largely drive beauty purchases. Oniangue said that because of the middle-class decline in Nigeria, Maybelline has taken a more premium positioning in this market. “It’s quite different from South Africa, where we can target a wider range of consumers.” This premium positioning has led to Maybelline’s Nigerian products being perceived as aspirational, aligning with the country’s appetite for high-quality international brands.

Meanwhile, in Kenya and East Africa, the brand  experienced notable success through structured retail distribution and e-commerce channels. “Kenya is an East African powerhouse when it comes to beauty,” Rekia Edu, Maybelline’s Marketing Manager for Sub-Saharan Africa told BeautyMatter. “We’re seeing a strong appetite for high-quality, trend-driven products, especially among Gen Z consumers who are heavily influenced by global beauty trends.”

Consumer Insights: What African Beauty Shoppers Want

Understanding local consumer behaviors has been crucial for Maybelline’s success. Many African beauty consumers are highly knowledgeable, trend-driven, and increasingly conscious of the values behind the brands they purchase. “They’re [our consumers] not just looking at product performance anymore,” Edu explained. “They want to know what the brand stands for. Do they cater to Black women? Do they have the right shade range? Are they aligned with local culture?”

For Nigerian consumers, in particular, the inflationary pressures and economic volatility have impacted spending habits, although brands still continue to bet on them. “We’ve seen a clear divide—while some consumers can still afford premium brands, others are prioritizing multi-functional products that give them more value for money,” Treasure Izegbunam, Brand Experience Manager, told to BeautyMatter. Izegbunam oversees Maybelline’s brand experience in Nigeria.

According to Edu, this shift has fueled demand for skincare-infused makeup, a trend known as "skincare-ification," where products offer both cosmetic and skincare benefits. Additionally, Nigeria’s status as a cultural trendsetter for beauty cannot be ignored.

In South Africa, however, the consumer profile differs slightly. “There’s a stronger middle class in South Africa, which allows us to market a broader range of products,” said Oniangue. South African beauty preferences also lean slightly more minimalistic than Nigeria’s full-glam aesthetic, influencing Maybelline’s product selection strategy in the market.

Challenges and Adaptations: Retail, Counterfeits, and Consumer Trust

Despite its impressive growth, Maybelline New York faces challenges in Africa, particularly in Nigeria, where the retail infrastructure for beauty remains underdeveloped. “Nigeria lacks a strong network of dedicated beauty retailers,” Izegbunam pointed out. “To address this, we’ve invested in upgrading our kiosks in major cities like Lagos and Abuja to offer consumers a premium retail experience.”

Counterfeiting is another significant challenge. Fake Maybelline products are widely available in informal markets across Africa, sometimes making it difficult for consumers to distinguish between authentic and counterfeit goods. “We’ve had cases where consumers unknowingly buy fake Maybelline products and have a bad experience, which affects brand trust,” said Edu. To combat this, Maybelline has doubled down on distribution control, ensuring that only authorized retailers—such as Jumia, Nigeria’s leading e-commerce platform—carry authentic products.

Another pain point has been the delay in launching global beauty trends in Africa. “Consumers see new Maybelline launches [in America and Europe] and expect them to be available here at the same time,” Edu said. “But due to logistical constraints, it sometimes takes longer for products to reach African markets, which can create frustration.”

Strategic Growth and Future Plans

Maybelline New York is committed to deepening its presence across the continent with long-term investments and expansion plans. In addition to Nigeria and South Africa, the brand is ramping up efforts in French-speaking West Africa, with Ivory Coast and Senegal emerging as priority markets. Tanzania and Uganda are also high on the list, given their strong consumer demand and proximity to Kenya, which serves as the regional hub. “We see Tanzania as a huge market with significant potential,” Oniangue said. “Uganda, too, is showing promising signs of growth.”

Beyond geographical expansion, Maybelline also leverages cultural connections to solidify its positioning. The brand is actively partnering with African artists, musicians, and influencers to create marketing campaigns that resonate with local consumers. In 2023, the brand tapped Nigerian hitmaker, Ayra Starr, as its new Sub-Saharan African spokesperson. “Music is a huge part of our brand DNA,” said Oniangue. “That’s why we’re working with African musicians and DJs, ensuring that our campaigns capture the energy and creativity of the continent.”

Strategic partnerships like this have pivoted the brand to new heights in Africa. “We’ve achieved double-digit growth year over year, and we’ve doubled our business in three years,” Oniangue confirmed. This growth underscores the brand’s strong momentum in Africa, as well as the increasing appetite for high-quality, globally recognized beauty products.

A Future-Forward Beauty Strategy for Africa

Maybelline New York’s African expansion is not just about selling products but about creating a sustainable, culturally relevant business that meets the evolving needs of African beauty consumers. By focusing on accessibility, innovation, and local engagement, the brand is well-positioned to become a dominant player in Africa’s booming beauty market.

With its strategic retail partnerships, focus on Gen Z and millennial consumers, and commitment to maintaining the authenticity of its global identity while embracing local influences, Maybelline New York’s journey in Africa is just getting started. And if the past few years are anything to go by, the future of Maybelline in Africa looks brighter than ever.