For more than a hundred years, tanning has been associated with health and beauty. The increasing popularity of self-tanning products is fueled by a growing awareness of sun damage and the risks associated with UV exposure. The cultural shift toward sunless tanning has increased the demand for self-tanning products and professional spray tans that allow consumers to achieve a healthy, vacation-like glow without the risk of sun damage. Sunless and self-tanning products deliver immediate results from head to toe. This instant gratification is a key factor driving the increasing popularity of sunless tanning among beauty consumers, especially as summer approaches.
The US prestige beauty market generated $114.6 million in sales for self-tanning products during 2024, according to Circana research. Globally, the self-tanning products' market size is expected to reach $1.31 billion by 2030, registering a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 4.5% over the forecast period, according to Grand View Research.
Sunless tanning products, which sit somewhere between skincare and makeup, have become an increasingly popular addition to many consumers’ bodycare routines. But given the increasing possibility of a recession, how could this affect the sales of sunless tanning products and services?
Historical trends indicate that tanning actually becomes more popular during economic downturns, as evidenced by Coco Chanel's popularization of tanning in the early 1920s following the recession of 1920-1921. The French fashion designer unintentionally acquired a tan while vacationing in the French Riviera. Her sunburn faded into a beautiful bronzed tan, which quickly became a trend that would endure for over a century. Today’s celebrities and influencers know better than to worship the sun for hours at a time, but the beauty ideal remains the same: tanned skin signifies health, wealth, and beauty.
More recently, the UK's sunless tanning market experienced a boom in 2008 amid the Great Recession. That year, UK department store John Lewis saw a 51% increase in sales of self-tanning products. During the same period in 2008, sales of fake tan at Superdrug reached 1.4 million bottles, a 50% increase, which the retailer attributed to poor weather conditions. When the weather outside is dreary and the economy is struggling, consumers turn to fake tans for a quick and easy pick-me-up.
The “lipstick index,” an economic theory coined by Leonard Lauder during the 2001 recession, suggests that sales of affordable luxury items like lipstick tend to increase during economic downturns as consumers forgo more expensive purchases in favor of smaller indulgences. Based on this historical context, the impending potential recession is unlikely to hinder the growth of the sunless tanning industry and may even give it a boost. With lipstick sales lagging behind other categories like prestige hair and fragrance, it may be time to rename the “lipstick index” the “sunless tanning index.”
The self-tanning market is gaining momentum as the season heats up and a potential recession looms. This growth is fueled by innovative products and services, supported by promising retail and investment activity. Below, BeautyMatter delves into the key factors and figures driving this surge in the sunless tanning industry.
The Evolution of Spray Tan Services
In the 1950, Eva Wittgenstein, a medical researcher at a hospital in Cincinnati, studied the effects of dihydroxyacetone (DHA) on children with a rare metabolic disorder when she made an unexpected discovery: the DHA solution temporarily darkened the patient’s skin tone without staining their clothes. This discovery paved the way for the development of airbrush spray tanning, which delivers DHA deeper into the layers of the skin so that it can react with more cells for a more uniform and long-lasting tan.
Courtney Claghorn started her sunless tanning and sugaring hair removal business on the heels of the 2008 recession. In 2010, she opened the first SUGARED + BRONZED location in Santa Monica, California. Fifteen years later, spray tans are more popular than ever before. The spray tanning market size was valued at $349.3 million in 2023 and is projected to reach $480.1 million by 2031, growing at a CAGR of 4.6% over the forecast period.
“We’ve all seen the Friends episode where Ross gets a bad fake tan, and unfortunately, this was common in the early days of spray tanning,” Claghorn told BeautyMatter.
When Claghorn first opened SUGARED + BRONZED, the customer base was generally younger women in their early 20s, but Claghorn said that’s changed in recent years as spray tans have become more popular among all age groups.
“Many people in their 40s and 50s had seen the poor results of machine tans—they looked very fake and orange—and they stayed away from tanning beds because of safety concerns,” said Claghorn. “Today, demand has only increased, and our customer base skews older with the median age around 30.”
SUGARED + BRONZED's growth was initially slow and steady, with the first 10 locations opening over nine years. The company's trajectory changed in 2021 following an investment in 2019 (Claghorn declined to share the amount), leading to rapid expansion with 34 locations across the United States across nine major markets (with 15 more on the horizon). In 2024, the company experienced 20%+ year-over-year (YoY) growth and signed 12 new location leases, with plans to sign an additional 12 in 2025.
One of the biggest shifts in the spray tanning category has been the “skinification” of sunless tanning, including spray tans. Today’s consumers want their fake tans to be as natural as possible, minus the skin damage associated with UV rays. SUGARED + BRONZED’s proprietary formula is made with vegan DHA derived from sugar beets combined with natural essential oils to keep skin from drying out during development. Claghorn admits that there's a limit to how “natural” a fake tan solution can be, although she aims for a solution that’s as natural as possible.
“If you ever hear of someone saying there's an organic spray tan, that's just not true,” she said. “DHA is derived [from sugar beets or sugar canes] and 90% water-based with water that isn't organic, so we just aim to be super transparent and make it as natural as we absolutely possibly can.”
Consumers cling to beauty buzzwords like “natural” and “organic,” but Claghorn has always been skeptical of these terms, especially when it comes to spray tans.
“Sometimes potential clients would come in asking if the solution is organic, and we probably lost a lot of clients by telling the truth,” she said. “But to me, it wasn't worth it. I like to be transparent, open, and honest. If there was an organic tan, we would have it, but there’s not.”
GoGLOW, founded in Minnesota by Melanie Richards, also started her spray tanning business in 2010. The business began as a mobile sunless tanning service but quickly expanded into a brick-and-mortar operation. GoGLOW now has 10 locations nationwide and expects to open another 40 locations this year. According to Richards, men are the key to unlocking growth in the sunless tanning category.
“Men who come in for a spray tan are the ones who we can't get out of the mirror,” she said. “The self-tanning and spray tanning market is already a multibillion-dollar industry. Once men catch on and adopt these practices, the market will explode, and there will be a massive influx of men seeking spray tans.”
Data on the percentage of men who get spray tans is limited but promising. In 2016, 25% of men ages 18-24 reported using a tanning salon compared with 21% of women of the same age group, according to Mintel. The male segment of the global spray tanning market is expected to grow at the fastest rate from 2022 to 2030, driven by increased awareness of personal grooming and rising disposable income, per research from PW Consulting.
Spray tan providers are aware of a greater hidden danger beyond the ingredients in spray tanning solutions, which is what consumers typically prioritize. While the FDA has approved DHA for external cosmetic use, inhalation of DHA is not deemed safe. The size of the inhaled DHA particles is a concern as smaller particles can penetrate deeper into the lungs, potentially causing health concerns depending on factors like particle type, concentration, and exposure duration. Research is ongoing, but there are concerns about the potential long-term effects of repeated DHA inhalation, including asthma and lung cancer.
To potentially solve this problem, Richards developed and patented an exclusive air-filtration system that features a walk-in booth with a curved wall that controls airflow to enhance comfort, efficiency, and precision. Strategically placed fans direct airflow to minimize airborne tanning solution particles, ensuring an even, flawless tan. Advanced filters capture any remaining residue, circulating only clean, fresh air throughout each session.
“I'm truly excited that we can elevate the spray tan experience for clients,” said Richards. “I’m hoping that this will give the spray tan industry some credibility and allow it to finally be recognized as a quality beauty treatment. This recognition will encourage people to expect a level of professionalism from their spray tan experience that currently doesn't exist.”
Sunless Tanning by the Numbers
TikTok plays a massive role in the recent growth of the sunless tanning category, which can be traced back to the viral popularity of Drunk Elephant's peptide-infused bronzing drops in 2023. This ignited the surge of online searches for sunless tanning, which continues to grow today. Brands like e.l.f. quickly launched affordable alternatives to the $38 bronzing drops, which encouraged luxury brands like Typology, Dior, and Sisley to enter the growing market, leading to a surge in sunless tanning products across every price point. Today, these products can be seen in almost every makeup and skincare routine on TikTok.
TikTok users view self-tanner content an average of 50.3 million times per week, and Google Search users search for self-tanner an average of 303,000 times per month, according to Spate. Face tanning lotion has increased in popularity by 22.8% on TikTok since last year. The top branded hashtag associated with this trend is #cocoandeve, which receives an average of 75,400 views per week, with videos praising the brand for the product’s skincare benefits.
Searches for tanning mists have risen by 57.4% since last year, making it the fastest-growing self-tanner across all platforms. Gradual tanners have also seen a YoY growth of 15.7% across all platforms.
Top self-tanning brands include Loving Tan, St. Tropez, and Hempz, per Spate. TikTok users are increasingly interested in specialized self-tanning products and educational content, as shown by the popularity of hashtags like #facetanner (61,000 average weekly views), #howtoselftan (26,100 average weekly views), and #selftanroutine (12,000 average weekly views). The top demographic hashtags paired with tanning mist include #womenover40 (13,000 average weekly views) and #womenover50 (12,700 average weekly views), indicating that the self-tanning trend is popular among older millennials and Generation X.
According to Market Defense, April marks the start of the self-tan buying season on Amazon. Branded searches for self-tanning and bronzing products are increasing, particularly for indie brands like Saie and luxury brands like Chanel.
The popularity of specialized self-tanning products such as sticks and mousse has grown significantly on Amazon, with a 179% increase for sticks and a 21% increase for mousse YoY. However, traditional self-tanning lotions have seen a 20% decline in popularity during the same period, indicating that this format is no longer the top choice among consumers. The demand for pregnancy-safe self-tanning products has increased by 1,619%, indicating that expectant mothers prioritize their self-tanning routines throughout their pregnancy.
Amazon has emerged as a pivotal platform for self-tanning brands like Tanologist, Tan-Luxe, and Isle of Paradise, facilitating their rapid growth and expansion.
“Amazon is really showing explosive growth with a direct correlation to channels like TikTok, where you can educate on application and show before and afters while also removing any fear factors of entering the category,” said Noelle Cantarano, Vice President of Global Marketing for Tanologist, Tan-Luxe, and Isle of Paradise.
The Convergence of Sunless Tanning with Fragrance, Skincare, and Makeup
The at-home self-tanning category has become increasingly crowded in recent years. The market has seen a surge of new brands focusing solely on self-tanning products, while established skincare and makeup brands like Charlotte Tilbury, Vacation, and Dr. Dennis Gross have also expanded their offerings to include self-tanning SKUs.
According to product development consultant Courtney DiFazio, who has worked with brands like L’Oreal, Kiehl's, and Estée Lauder, recent advancements in sunless tanning products involve new formats. While mousse is the most prevalent and popular format, booster drops and sprays have gained popularity in recent years.
While the primary active ingredient in self-tanners, DHA, has remained the same, DiFazio said there have been recent advancements in its quality. The sunless tanning market is seeing a rise in biotech and encapsulated forms of DHA, which brands often market as "cleaner" than older versions. Sustainably sourced, bio-based versions of these ingredients also support this "clean" claim, a crucial factor for today's consumers.
Additionally, by incorporating skincare staples like niacinamide and hyaluronic acid, these products offer performance-based benefits for the first time. Many of these advancements help to provide a better color, better application, and also a better experience in terms of reduced odor. Vita Liberata and St. Tropez are two notable examples of brands that utilize encapsulated DHA to enhance sunless tanning outcomes and reduce odor, according to DiFazio.
In this increasingly competitive market, self-tanning brands are stepping up their game to meet the demands of discerning consumers. Consumers respond well to sunless tanning brands that have some crossover into other beauty categories, such as fragrance, skincare, and makeup.
Sivan Ayla, founder of Lux Unfiltered, incorporates luxury fragrances into her brand’s self-tanning products to stand out among a sea of competition and combat the common complaint of fake tan smell.
“I’m a big fragrance girl, so the uptick in fragrance over the past few years has really solidified my decision to work alongside some of the top fragrance houses in the country to develop custom blends for our products,” said Ayla. “To some, it might be a small detail, but [fragrance] shapes your entire experience and has become something we are known for.”
After five years as a DTC-only brand, Lux Unfiltered launched in 100 Sephora stores and online last summer. The brand's best-selling products are its clear face drops and gradual body cream, now offered in multiple versions to appeal to a broader customer base.
“Self-tanning used to be such an undesirable process, but we have paved the way through easy-to-use products that are not messy to apply,” said Ayla. “Solving the pain points of self-tanning was a big reason behind me launching the brand in the first place, and that continues to be the ethos of the brand and the standard of each product we create.”
Luna Bronze was one of the first brands to lean into the “skinification” of self-tanning in 2015. At the time, the market was saturated with products focused on achieving the fastest, darkest tan possible, often resulting in dry, cracked skin and uneven fading.
“In 2015, self-tanning was still largely associated with bold, often unnatural results,” Luna Bronze co-founder Maddy Balderson told BeautyMatter. “Fast forward to today, and consumers are far more skin-conscious. They’re reading ingredient lists, asking about hydration, and looking for products that do more than just tan; they want skin benefits, too.”
A decade later, Luna Bronze’s commitment to combining self-tanning with skincare still resonates with today’s consumers: the brand’s DTC site has grown 50% YoY, with Q1 2025 showing an 85% increase from the previous year. Luna Bronze's 2024 launch on Amazon has been highly successful, with the platform recently achieving its highest sales month to date.
“Consumer attitudes toward sun exposure are changing, and that’s fueling long-term growth in the self-tanning space,” said Luna Bronze co-founder Rhiannon Hall. “People want safe, effective alternatives [to sun tanning], and they’re becoming more discerning in their choices”.
Vita Liberata entered the sunless tanning market through makeup. The brand's cult-favorite bronzing body product, Body Blur, which is beloved by makeup artists for use on the red carpet, paved the way for the brand to expand into other innovative products that offer a safe and luxurious alternative to sun exposure.
Creating a formula that provides a natural look while making a significant overall impact is challenging. Alyson Hogg, CEO and founder of Vita Liberata, compared it to creating an impactful lipstick that is both invisible and imperceptible. Although this is a difficult task, Hogg believes that Vita Liberata meets this challenge head-on.
“Skin care-based tanning exists at the intersection of protection, color enhancement, and skin nutrition, and such products are definitely a growing vertical in the tanning industry,” said Hogg. “Right now, we are also turning our attention to the development of excellent tools to make sure perfect application leans into the cosmetic expectations of our very discerning customer group.”
For Vita Liberata, sunless tanning products are more than just a cosmetic fix for pale skin; they replace UVA and UVB rays, too much of which can lead to skin cancer. “Apart from SPF, this is the only category in beauty where the products we make are designed to create a viable healthy alternative to a life-threatening activity,” said Hogg. “I am very proud of that and take the responsibility very seriously.”
In a study of 1,000 women conducted by Vita Liberata, the brand discovered that the primary reason consumers used sunbeds was to feel confident and healthy. The brand has since adopted a mission-driven approach advocating for stricter regulations and mandatory warnings on sunbeds in the UK. This mission has become part of Vita Liberata’s brand philosophy, along with developing sophisticated, safe, and highly effective self-tanning products.
“With melanoma cases surging worldwide, we are more passionate than ever about not just providing luxurious self-tanning products but about actively advocating for sun safety and raising awareness about skin cancer prevention,” said Hogg. “Additionally, the desire for skin care-based products with skin nutrients as well as cosmetic results falls very neatly into what we have always done and has always been part of our philosophy.”
Investor and Retail Movement in the Sunless Tanning Space
From an investment standpoint, the sunless tanning category is white hot. Last year, Gauge Capital acquired a majority stake in Coco & Eve for over $100 million. This acquisition was added to Gauge Capital's portfolio of tanning products, which they’re calling Soleil Collective. The Soleil Collective was established after Gauge Capital made a strategic investment in Brisbane-based Loving Tan in 2023. Also in 2023, Japanese beauty conglomerate Kao Corp acquired Australian self-tanning brand Bondi Sands in a cash deal estimated to be worth $450 million. These strategic investments set the stage for the growth happening in 2025 in the sunless tanning category.
For True Beauty Ventures founder Rich Gersten, this category is a little too hot to the touch. While it's not his primary investment focus, he believes certain brands within the category are more promising than others.
“In a competitive market that also has greater seasonality risk, we view brands that can capitalize on advancements and trends within skincare to deliver greater benefit to the consumer as most attractive within the self-tanning category,” Gersten told BeautyMatter. “Lastly, the ability to exit an investment in a more ‘niche’ market segment provides additional challenges to an investment.”
He cited brands like Tan-Luxe and Isle of Paradise as examples of those who have successfully leveraged these trends. These brands have distinguished themselves by offering innovative and sophisticated formulas and formats, personalized experiences, and premium branding strategies, surpassing the offerings of traditional brands. Skincare and makeup brands have also capitalized on the momentum by adding new self-tanning products to their lineups, as seen with the proliferation of bronzing drops.
“Some of these brands have successfully leveraged the strength of their brand and the trust they’ve built with consumers in their core category to expand selectively into self-tanning, while others chased trends (often too late) and lost sight of their core competency,” said Gersten.
While True Beauty Ventures is not leaning into this category, Gersten believes the self-tanning market still has room for growth. Self-tanning is no longer seen as a seasonal product but is becoming a year-round beauty essential, as evidenced by its growing popularity on TikTok and in searches. The category has been redefined by hybrid products, future innovations in customization, and AI-driven shade matching could further drive growth. New formats such as tanning serums, SPF-infused tanners, and body bronzing skincare are still expanding. As seen across skincare and makeup categories, consumers are demanding more from their products and seeking self-tanning products that offer more than just color.
“In this category, brands need to bring something new to the table amid the flood of self-tanning products to the market, and give consumers a clear value proposition and reason to purchase across all touchpoints,” said Gersten. “Brands that can capitalize on developments within skincare to advance formulations with the best skincare actives will ultimately deliver greater value to the consumers as the innovation potential for self-tanning alone is likely more limited.”
Retailers are experiencing an increase in this category's growth and recognizing potential opportunities for further expansion. Tanning products are experiencing a 25% yearly growth at the UK-based beauty retailer SpaceNK. Margaret Mitchell, Chief Commercial Officer at SpaceNK, noted the popularity of hybrid skincare-tanning products, such as Self Glow Dusk to Dawn Overnight Mask and Tan-Luxe Superglow Serum, which can be incorporated into skincare routines and left on overnight. Additionally, express or instant tan products like Tan Luxe Express Mousse or Charlotte Tilbury Supermodel Body, which provide quick results, perform well. Mitchell also mentioned the perennial customer favorite and cult classic By Terry Tea to Tan at SpaceNK.
“Tanning is ubiquitous in the UK, and as summer starts to set in, people will often get regular spray tans and then use a self-tan product at home to top up between services,” Mitchell told BeautyMatter. “The overnight tan and instant tan categories both lend themselves to recent TikTok trends and content creation, which is certainly one of the reasons these types of products are growing.”
SpaceNK’s tanning products tend to sit between £20 and £30 ($26 and $40), which is a prestige price point. “Customers need to really trust their tan, so they are willing to spend a bit more for something that they know will be effective, natural looking, good for their skin, and easy to use,” said Mitchell.
SpaceNK customers purchase tanning products year-round, with sales peaking during the Christmas and New Year's holidays. While body tanning products experience a significant increase in sales during the summer and a decrease during the autumn and winter, tanning products overall are not specific to any particular age group or season. This year, Mitchell expects body shimmer to grow as an add-on to self-tan over this summer.
In the US retail environment, the self-tanning category continues to see strong and steady growth. Over the past two years, Ulta Beauty has seen increased interest driven by skincare-infused formulas, “clean” ingredients, and multifunctional benefits. Brands like St. Tropez, Bondi Sands, Loving Tan, b. tan, Coco & Eve, and Bali Body are the most popular across Ulta Beauty’s assortment.
“We are always evaluating our assortment and looking to expand with an eye toward innovation, demand, and trends,” Penny Coy, Senior Vice President of Merchandising at Ulta Beauty, told BeautyMatter. “We're particularly interested in brands bringing fresh perspectives—whether through technology, skin tone inclusivity, or skincare-hybrid formulations.”
While lotions remain one of Ulta Beauty’s top-performing formats alongside mousses, the retailer is also seeing strong growth in more targeted and buildable products, including self-tanning drops—like the Tan Luxe Self-Tanning Drops—and face-specific formats, like contour sticks from Sunnee BAEskin and Dolce Glow, as well as St. Tropez Self Tan Purity Bronzing Face Mist. Express formulas like Loving Tan’s 2-Hour Express Tan and skincare-forward gradual tanners with ingredients like hyaluronic acid and niacinamide are also gaining traction. TikTok has had a major impact on driving trial and virality in the category.
“Products like the Dolce Glow Self-Tan Contouring Stick have gone viral stemming from tutorials or tanning hacks by notable celebrities and influencers,” said Coy. “The platform has also democratized self-tanning, making it more approachable for a wider audience and encouraging experimentation through quick, digestible content. We’ve seen how social proof can rapidly accelerate discovery and conversion, especially among Gen Z and younger millennial guests.”
While millennials remain a core demographic, Ulta Beauty has seen significant growth among Gen Z towards self-tanning and glow-boosting products.
“Gen Z has become a key driver of category growth, accounting for a significant portion of our new self-tanning customers,” said Coy. “Their interest is largely fueled by TikTok trends and tutorials, product education from creators, and a desire for products that do more than one thing—think glow, hydrate, firm, and protect all in one.”
Ulta Beauty offers self-tanning products at every price point, but is currently seeing the strongest growth in the masstige and prestige price points, indicating that consumers are willing to pay higher prices for skincare-infused formulas that are easy to apply and give them a perfectly even tan while offering added skincare benefits.
The Current State of the Sunless Tanning Market
The self-tanning category is on a hot streak that is expected to burn even brighter even amid a potential economic downturn. Spray tan services are growing at an unprecedented rate, fueled by the "skinification" of the category and advancements in technology designed to prioritize client health, safety, and air quality. Fueled by TikTok, self-tanning products are seeing double-digit growth on social media and in search. Beauty brands that can successfully incorporate sunless tanning into other beauty categories, such as fragrance, skincare, and makeup, will lead this expanding market. Investment activity in 2023 and 2024 set the stage for growth in 2025, although there is still room for further expansion and investor interest. Retailers are taking note of this growth and stacking their shelves accordingly with brands that provide a glow at every price point, but note that consumers are willing to spend more for greater skincare benefits.
