A/W 22 Couture Week saw several extraordinary themes, from large headpieces and bold accessories to shiny chromatic, iridescent eyeshadows and lipsticks. Here are all the need-to-know beauty looks from the runway, selected by BeautyMatter.
Iris Van Herpen
At Iris Van Herpen, all that glitters is definitely gold. The runway began with a golden jeweled static skeletal figure in the center that remained for the entirety of the show, followed by a model with fresh, dewy makeup and perfectly plump glossy lips. Complementing her pristinely shaped brushed-up eyebrows, iridescent foil-like silver eyeshadow dented the crevices of the eyelid. The model's hair ran in cornrows vertically down the head, wrapping around a metallic headband to create a dome-like fastening. The skeleton theme continued as models entered with hair tightly braided from the back of the neck to the forehead, creating a dinosaur-esque spine. Some hairstyles didn't stop at the forehead, with two singular braids trailing down the face and curving to each side of the undereye area, resembling lungs on their faces. Headwear was also a prevalent theme throughout the collection, with a handful of models adorning headpieces that traced the structure of their faces, with twig-like branches spewing off the head in all directions. The standout moment within the show was a model whose black dress displayed a chalk-white cartoon-style outline structure of her body. Half of the face was covered by the garment, with the other half completed with a makeup outline of her bone structure.
Viktor&Rolf
Viktor&Rolf stuck to the theme of high shrugged shoulders, showing similarities to last year's Couture Week's happenings, creating an eerie Frankenstein-like look. All models wore face makeup that created a neutral one-color base, with ashy hollow contour furthering the ghoulish stances on their faces, some heavily contoured with a bruised purple shade. Every model's eyeshadow looked powdery and light, with darker skin-toned models sporting navy- and royal-blue eye looks, while those with light tones had softer, more baby blue additions to their eyes. Eyelashes were left entirely bare, softly curled over, contrasting the strong eyeshadows. Lips kept to their natural shapes, cleanly lined with deep-red pencil. The centers of the lips were a juicy ripe apple-red shade, adjusting to each individual's complexion differently, creating a unique look for each person. Hair was either left natural and static or slicked back tight to the head, again following the Frankenstein feel.
Stefan Djokovich
Djokovich's "Trianon" collection was inspired by the gardens of Versailles, where royal members would enjoy feasts. Across the whole collection, a delicate approach was taken to makeup, with all faces looking clean, fresh, and dewy, much like Versailles garden flowers. Highlight strikingly shone from cheekbones, T-zones, and cupid bows, reflecting the room lighting off of the pristine white walls. Lips were decorated with metallic chrome shades that matched models' hair, from bright bronze lips paired with fiery orange hair and a bold yellowish-gold lip paired with bleached blonde hair. Eyes were shadowed with smoky brown, black, and copper hues, enhancing the hollows of the eyes. Hair was pulled back into silky-smooth low ponytails, flowing down to the hip bones. A middle parting was created at the front of the hair with a tight coil-like curl stuck down onto the skin. At the show's end, the final model to enter the runway was seen wearing a polished gold mask, covering the entirety of the face with rippled leaves protruding in a Medusa snake style.
Schiaparelli
If this collection is anything to go by, beauty's next focus belongs to the lower face. Across several models, hats and headpieces so large they covered the majority of the face could be seen. Standing out from shadows, coral pink and bold red lips perched on the face, with perfectly contoured, smooth chins on show, highlighted at the edge. For those without headwear, hair was sleek and gelled away from the face, emphasizing the eyebrow area; however, many models were seen with thin and bleached brows, making brow bones stand out more so than the eyebrows themselves. Eyes were dark, with bold black eyeliner sharply flicking across the face. The playfully colored lipstick was complemented by bright flowers that sprouted off of garments and across models' shoulders and collarbones. Pat McGrath decorated chest areas with stardust-like highlights, creating a soft yet powerful glow through makeup looks.
Chanel
This Couture Week's collection saw beauty displays of simple yet gorgeously enhanced features in classic, classy, clean Chanel style. The models' eye colors were made to pop by tight waterline eyeliner, either dark brown or black, depending on the individual. Eyebrows took a similar approach, naturally fluffy, brushed up and bold, filled in perfectly with no hair out of place. Eyelashes were thick and grouped in a ’60s doll-like style, with the lower lashes a similar length to the top. Soft peach and rose blush sat on the apples of the cheeks, encouraging a healthy glow across all faces. Lips were kept extremely natural, with glosses and lipsticks matching the models' real lip colors—so subtle at times it seemed as if nothing was actually there. Hair also took a very natural approach, with subtle waves and baby hair welcomed. On top of some models' heads, large silk black bows stayed neatly in place, with any spare fabric left to flow through the hair.