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Estée Lauder Unveils Skincare Studies at the World Congress of Dermatology

Published September 24, 2023
Published September 24, 2023
World Congress of Dermatology

The annual World Congress of Dermatology allows prestigious companies to share new techniques, topics, and research methods that have been worked on in the fields of dermatology, plastic surgery, and aesthetic science. This year, the event took place in Singapore, and numerous pieces of research and innovation were revealed, including Pierre Fabre's All Project Database. The resource contained information from a survey of 50,000 people in 20 different countries and was created to give dermatologists the most accurate outlook on their patients' diagnosis and treatment needs. Another company to share beneficial research at the event was Estée Lauder, revealing findings from its latest preclinical and clinical skincare studies with a focus on aging. 

The research presentations from Estée Lauder were based on a portfolio of ELC beauty and skincare brands that effectively translate biological learning and progressive innovation through research, hoping to find better methods of caring for and protecting the skin. BeautyMatter outlines the key findings.

The Benefits of Regular Daily Moisturizer Use in Skin Aging Prevention

Hao Ouyang, PhD, Executive Director of Clinical Sciences at Estée Lauder Companies, presented the results of a six-month evaluator-blinded, randomized, and controlled clinical study surrounding the benefits of regular moisturizer use regarding skin aging prevention. The study evaluated 160 women aged between 35-65 with dry skin and mild to moderate crow's feet wrinkles. A key similarity among all these women was a lack of a skincare routine before the study, allowing for the most effective results from the new products implemented for the analysis. Participants were split into two groups, one using moisturizer twice daily and the other following low-frequency application. The study's results were assessed based on two key factors: transepidermal water loss and stratum corneum adhesion. The study's conclusion found that regular application of potent moisturizer treats skin dryness while also improving the dry skin stratum corneum (the outermost layer of the epidermis) cohesion, reducing the appearance of facial aging and wrinkles. 

Multi-Ingredient Facial Cream Impact on Skin Structure

Jaime Emmetsberger, PhD, Research Labs Lead Scientist at La Mer, presented the outcomes from a clinical study that assessed the effect of a multi-ingredient facial cream on skin structure, function, and appearance. The scientists evaluated a topical cream formula containing Macrocystis pyrifera algae ferment, among other typical moisturizer ingredients, and its effects on various skin types and tones. The experiments found that the multi-ingredient creams improved the skin barrier's recovery and resilience, reduced visible redness (erythema) in addition to irritation, and demonstrated a reduction in signs of aged skin in US and Asian-based populations. The tissue examination of those involved in the study confirmed that the application of the product enhanced critical extracellular matrix proteins and hyaluronic acid in the skin.

The Importance of SIRTs in Regulating Mechanobiology of the Skin

Nadine Pernodet, PhD, Senior Vice President of Bioscience and Lead Scientist at Estée Lauder Research Laboratories, discussed the findings of a study surrounding the role of SIRTs (enzymes that control extracellular liver-bone communication) in regulating the mechanobiology (physical forces and changes in the mechanical properties of cells) of the skin and promoting youthful skin properties. The research built on a previous study by the company that showed slower SIRT activity in skin cells is linked to environmental stressors, including UVB/UVC. The researchers treated individuals with SIRT 1 (regulates liver proteins), 2 (maintains survival of cells), and 3 (assists cell signaling), and found that this combination helped to rebuild protein structure and increased collagen production in mature skin cells. Those treated with a combination of SIRT 1 and 3 showed increased levels of the fibrillin enzyme, which contributed to increased elasticity in the skin. The implementation of SIRT 2 alone increased the size of skin cell area, a hallmark feature typical for younger skin cells, promoting a youthful skin look. When all used together, the combination of SIRTs exerted different effects to preserve the mechanical properties of young skin.

The Anti-Glycation and Anti-Sallowness Effects of Varying Materials on Skin Equivalent 3D Models

Tom Mammone, PhD, Vice President of Advanced Technologies and Bioscience at Estée Lauder, revealed the outcomes of a study on different materials' anti-glycation and anti-sallowness effects on 3D skin equivalent models. The presentation explained that glycation (a chemical modification that occurs on naturally produced sugar molecules and leads to the formation of advanced glycation end products, often referenced as AGEs) causes skin aging and a sallow complexion. AGEs can be detected using measurements of auto-fluorescence at different excitation/emission wavelengths within the UV and blue spectrum. The study found that GlcNAc (an amide derivative of the monosaccharide glucose) and vitamins E and C most effectively reduced AGE auto-fluorescence compared to skin models treated with glycation agent methylglyoxal alone. These results confirm that these materials used in skincare formulations lead to effective anti-glycation and anti-sallowness, contributing to anti-aging.

Topical Cosmetic Serums vs. Laser Treatment

Kristine Schmalenberg, PhD, Executive Director of Clinical Sciences at Estée Lauder, unpacked the results of research that found that topical cosmetic serum with a targeted, triple-action approach provides anti-aging benefits equal to a single laser treatment. A Clinique-led clinical trial of 42 women with moderate facial photodamage was conducted, evaluating a combination of ingredients believed to support natural skin repair compared to a single laser treatment. While no statistically significant differences in tolerability were observed, treatment with the cosmetic topical product achieved a statistically significant improvement in all measured parameters compared to a single laser treatment. The topical product improved the appearance of lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, skin tone, evenness, texture, smoothness, and firmness.

"For over 75 years, innovation in skin science has been our North Star. With rapidly emerging knowledge and advancements from the dermatologic and scientific communities, the science of skincare has never been more important. As we live longer, research on health span and longevity will only accelerate. To meet these innovation challenges, we are thinking differently and in a manner enabled by novel science across all our global laboratories and clinics,” says Lisa Napolione, Senior Vice President of Global Research & Development at Estée Lauder.

Estée Lauder believes that these findings, alongside continued studies, will contribute to the evolving conversation and development of reversing the signs of aging through scientific skincare. Dior has previously pioneered research in this space, collaborating with leading international experts who created the first International Reverse Aging Scientific Advisory Board (RASAB) dedicated to the research of skin and aging. As large corporations continue to push for investigations in such categories, opportunities and information will continue to become readily available to a larger audience, progressing the category as a whole, as the World Congress of Dermatology allows this progression to be highlighted.


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