Key Takeaways:
The global beauty and personal care market worldwide is projected to generate a revenue of $677.19 billion in 2025, with Black consumers representing one of its fastest-growing and most influential segments. In the United States alone, Black consumers’ spending on beauty products totaled $9.4 billion in 2023, accounting for 14.4% of the US population—a 32% increase since 2000. By contrast, in the United Kingdom, Black consumers represent roughly 4% of the total population, yet their (multiethnic) valued £230million ($308 million) monthly spending on health and beauty still leaves them undermined, especially in the skincare and cosmetics categories.
Against this backdrop, though, Black beauty founders on both sides of the Atlantic are redefining what entrepreneurship looks like, while the US has benefited from structural initiatives such as the Fifteen Percent Pledge and a vocal consumer base championing Black-owned brands. However, that is now under attack, and UK founders continue to navigate a more conservative ecosystem where visibility, funding, and consumer trust require a longer runway.
This contrast grew clearly in conversations with entrepreneurs like Janet Davies, founder of Ominira Naturals, a UK-based haircare brand; Judy Koloko, founder of The Steam Bar, an elevated and Selfridges-endorsed scalp and hair steaming concept also based in the UK; and Maya Smith, CEO of US haircare brand The Doux, which is now expanding into the UK and EU.
Consumers: Conservative versus Community-Driven
For Davies, her motivation to launch Ominira Naturals was deeply personal. “I've always just hated the rhetoric that Black women can’t grow hair. So, I feel like it’s been my lifelong mission to solve that problem,” she opened up to BeautyMatter. Founded during the pandemic with no more than fifty bottles of her first product, Ominira Naturals has grown into a seven-figure pound business in just two years, still entirely bootstrapped. Today, the brand boasts a loyal global customer base of over 30,000, with 70% based in the US.
Yet despite success, Davies highlighted the cultural differences in consumer behavior across markets, citing how media and entertainment are powerful frontiers for the beauty industry. “In the US, celebrity culture is very big. People have no shame in loving celebrities and following them. In the UK, however, it’s a bit more conservative. Until you prove that you’re of worth, that’s when they will then support you,” Davies said.
Koloko, who built The Steam Bar after years in the fashion industry, echoes this sentiment but with a retail-facing perspective. Despite hosting successful pop-ups in Selfridges and preparing to launch in Sephora through its Accelerate program, she has encountered hesitation from UK retailers. “I had a meeting with one retailer in particular, and it was quite disappointing when they said, ‘We wouldn’t have your brand in here because we don’t know how to speak to your community,’” she told BeautyMatter.
For licensed cosmetologist and salon owner, Smith, who already scaled The Doux into one of the fastest-growing Black-owned brands in the US, entering the UK feels like a natural progression. “When we looked at the landscape in Europe and the UK, it was clear that the textured haircare community remains underserved,” she said to BeautyMatter. “That kind of access doesn’t exist in Europe yet,” continued. Having built her brand out of salon culture, she sees opportunity in bridging gaps left by mainstream retail. The brand has just launched into the UK market via Superdrug and Boots, marking its first step into broader EU expansion.
The starkest difference between the US and UK beauty ecosystems lies in consumer culture. In the US, Black consumers have been central to driving demand, setting trends, and validating new brands. As Koloko puts it, “whenever I go to America and I take products, Black Americans try it, then post. They are cheerleaders. They are like, ‘When is The Steam Bar coming to the US? You’ve got to get this here.’ The way they champion is amazing.”
In contrast, Davies finds the UK consumer base slower to embrace new entrants. “In the US, they will just believe you, and that’s fine; but in the UK you kind of have to prove yourself. Once you've proved yourself, then you can become an industry name,” the recently announced 2025 finalist for the Black British Business Awards in the Consumer & Luxury category, said.
Funding, Access, and the Investment Landscape
Perhaps the most significant structural gap between the two regions is in funding. US founders benefited from post-2020 momentum—although it has since plummeted—when corporate pledges and retail diversity commitments created new pathways to capital. Smith pointed to the impact of the Fifteen Percent Pledge. “That simple shift opened doors that had been closed for decades. We have also seen mentorship programs, supplier diversity efforts, and year-round visibility campaigns that make it easier for customers to find us and for founders to grow.”
But as Koloko explained, the UK investment climate remains more cautious. “We did a fund raise in 2021. Everyone I pitched to gave [us] money. But as Black Lives Matters has ‘gone away,’ all that empathy has also gone by,” she revealed. “This time around, it’s much harder. People want to see traction and metrics. But the numbers here [in the UK as a brand based here] are minimal,” she continued.
Davies, meanwhile, has bootstrapped her way to over £1 million ($1.3 million) in revenue but admitted that growth will require outside capital. “With bootstrapping, it’s admirable but it’s almost like playing a hard long game,” she said. “Even if we need to raise financing, that [investment] is not something that we are against anymore.” The distinction is clear. While US founders must navigate the rise and fall of corporate commitments to diversity, UK founders face a more conservative investment culture that often underestimates the opportunity within their demographic.
Distribution represents another dividing line. In the US, textured haircare is increasingly visible across mass retail. Target, Walmart, Sephora, and Ulta Beauty all carry a broad range of Black-owned lines. In the UK, textured hair products are still largely confined to specialist shops, select retailers like Boots and SpaceNK, or online DTC.
As Smith noted on her reason for expanding into the UK and EU, “You can walk into a major retailer [in the US] and find a wide range of textured haircare brands at your fingertips. That kind of access doesn’t exist in Europe yet.”
Yet signs of progress are emerging. UK retailers such as Selfridges have carved out space for inclusive brands, while programs like the British Beauty Council’s Direct to Retail campaign are designed to accelerate visibility for underrepresented founders. Davies emphasized how such recognition can shift consumer trust. “When they see that we are connected with other large corporations, it gives a level of trust that perhaps we may not be able to garner by ourselves.”
Opportunities on Both Sides
Despite these challenges, both markets offer unique opportunities. For US founders, the UK represents a relatively untapped market where lower saturation could lead to greater visibility. “The opportunities in the UK and EU are tremendous because the market is far less saturated than in the US,” Smith said.
For UK founders, global expansion and cross-Atlantic validation could be pivotal. As Koloko reflected, “I almost know that I have to get into the US for this to really take off.”
Meanwhile, UK consumers are increasingly aware of the need for inclusivity, with reports that 74% of Black and mixed-heritage consumers believe the market still underserves their needs. This signals room for growth if founders can overcome structural hurdles to funding and distribution.
It is important to note that while the US and UK beauty markets diverge sharply in size, culture, and structure, for Black founders, the mission is shared, and that is to build sustainable businesses that reflect and serve their communities. Whether it’s Davies educating consumers on hair health, Koloko redefining scalp care rituals, or Smith bridging access gaps across continents, their journeys highlight both the resilience of Black founders and the systemic differences that shape their paths.
While the US proves the power of consumer-driven demand and structural initiatives, the UK shows the promise of inclusivity and innovation in a smaller, yet evolving market. Together, they point toward a global Black beauty ecosystem that, if supported on both sides of the Atlantic, could reshape the future of the industry.
