Scents and perfumes have always held a deep significance within African cultures. They transcend beyond mere cosmetic use, and symbolize identity, spirituality, and tradition. As the importation of global perfume brands continues to permeate the market, and as contemporary African perfume brands gain international recognition, there’s proof of the continent’s rich and diverse olfactory heritage. This heritage is now at the forefront of a growing perfume market that’s attracting both African and global consumers. Although the global fragrances and perfumes market size is estimated at $67.53 billion in 2024 according to Mordor Intelligence, expecting to reach $97.76 billion by 2029, growing at a CAGR of 7.68% during the forecast period (2024-2029), Statista records that the African fragrance market is estimated to hit $8.62 billion in 2024 with a projected CAGR of 5.11% (2024-2028). This estimation is largely supported by Africa’s middle class, which continues to expand and demand premium personal care products, leaving industries like the perfume industry to become increasingly viable and lucrative. This surge is also not only driven by local demand but also by the global recognition of Africa’s unique fragrance traditions and raw materials.
A Market Ripe for Growth
Africa’s beauty and personal care market is ripe for growth. Although many states continue to experience a surge in the cost of living, disposable incomes are on the rise, consumers are becoming more brand conscious, and there is increasing demand for luxury products, including perfumes. Major players in the global fragrance industry are starting to tap into Africa’s potential, with companies like Avon and L’Oréal penetrating the region. Heavyweight retailers like the Dutch omnichannel enterprise Skin Cosmetics have launched in regions like South Africa, while there has been the rise of independent retailers like Nigeria-born Seinde Signature. Furthermore, indie players such as White Label Fragrance in Botswana, Scent of Africa in Ghana, Saint d’Ici in Cape Town (South Africa), and Maya Njie of Gambian heritage, are emerging as key competitors.
Northern African countries like Egypt and Morocco are huge exporters of perfume. For example, Egypt exported up to $702 million worth of perfumes and essential oils in 2023. Nigeria is leading the charge in West Africa, where the fragrance market is booming, as it is worth over $1 billion. According to Euromonitor, “increasing urbanization and urban lifestyles [in Nigeria] are expected to boost fragrances’ performance over the forecast period. As many consumers become more sophisticated in terms of their personal image, they are more likely to use fragrances regularly.” South Africa follows closely behind, where premium brands dominate the space. Despite economic challenges in certain regions, brands continue to place their bets as fragrance consumption continues to rise across the continent, signaling that Africa’s perfume market is far from reaching its peak.
Cultural Relevance of Scents and Perfumes in Africa
Scent also plays a significant role in social interactions across Africa. In many parts of West and East Africa, scent is used not only to enhance personal allure but also to signal social and economic status. The cultural relevance of perfumes in Africa cannot be overstated. “Africans, especially Nigerians, like to show off a lot,” Seinde Olushola, founder of Seinde Signature, celebrated luxury fragrance retailer in Nigeria, says to BeautyMatter. “We’re exuberant people, and that translates in our dressings, hairstyles, and even how we smell. Everyone wants to look and smell better than the other, so you find a lot of people investing in fragrances and perfumes.” he continues. Olushola launched Seinde Signature at the peak of the pandemic. He was first a collector of luxury perfumes until the pandemic when he decided to display his archive in one of Nigeria’s most luxurious hotels, Oriental Hotels, situated on Lagos Island. Right now, the store boasts seven retail outlets—and two to open later in the year—spread across Nigeria, and a selection of over 1,300 fragrances from more than 35 brands including the bestsellers Bosporus Pearl by Alghabra Parfums, Capua by Electimuss London, and Bois Imperial by Essential Parfums.
Historically, fragrances have been deeply intertwined with rituals, spirituality, and social status. In Ancient Egypt, for example, blended aromatic oils and balms were used for both medicinal and religious purposes. Resins like myrrh and frankincense, flowers such as lotus and rose, and herbs like cinnamon and mint were among the most common ingredients. Selected plant materials are then placed in a base of water, wine, or fats (often animal fats), in a process called maceration. Extraction and filtration, blending and enrichment, preservation, and then application, are carried out consecutively. These techniques were sophisticated, and many of these methods still influence perfume-making today.
Across sub-Saharan Africa, perfumes often involve natural ingredients like shea butter, coconut oil, and aromatic resins. They’re also a reminder of family, identity and culture, especially for those who may feel distant from their African heritage. Eponymous label Maya Njie is a typical example of this. Their products are drawn from elements like family and culture, pointing at the founder’s Scandinavian-Gambian heritage. “Africans are very family-oriented. So, when I began to formulate scents and fragrances, I was very much inspired by my family and photographs I have of them,” Maya Njie, founder of the namesake label says. “With these formulations, I try to evoke a sense of belonging and emotion—one that taps into our identities and reminds us of who we are,” the London-based self-taught perfumer says.
Risks and Rewards
Developments like the infusion of culture and heritage have caused African perfumers to gain international acclaim, as they blend local ingredients with Western perfumery techniques. Brands like Maya Njie, White Label Fragrances, and many others are emerging as global players in niche perfume markets, selling their unique blends both locally and internationally. These brands are increasingly shipping across Europe, North America, Africa, and Asia. White Label Fragrances, for example, has over four retail outlets across Botswana, while Maja Njie has her most loyal customers all the way in Japan, where there is a growing appetite for niche, artisanal perfumes that emphasize craftsmanship and sustainability.
These rewards, of course, do not come without its challenges, with exchange rates and governmental regulations and policies occurring as major issues. “Due to certain governmental policies [and weak inter-Africa relationship], we’re unable to reach some of our customers and markets we would want to reach,” Thamani Thothe, founder and brains behind White Label Fragrances, says to BeautyMatter. “The business and customers are there, and there’s an absolute market out there for niche fragrances like ours, especially within the continent,” Thothe says, “but it’s so much harder to make transactions within the continent than it is to make outside of it.”
Perfumes are a part of the beauty and wellness industry, and although products such as makeup and skincare may be difficult to ship across borders, perfumes pose a much greater pain for these founders and they—perfumes—are considered as perishable goods. In the EU for example, several ingredients commonly used in perfumes and fragrances are classified as flammable and are therefore subject to stringent regulations. Key flammable ingredients commonly found in perfumes that face regulation include ethanol (ethyl alcohol), isopropyl alcohol (IPA), benzyl alcohol, ethyl acetate, limonene, etc. “[Especially] across the EU, certain regulations exist against or for ingredients contained in perfumes, such that although an ingredient may not be considered as intensely perishable, others may consider it as such,” Njie says. This has made it difficult for brands to create products for larger sales, as they’re forced to sometimes tailor productions according to country-specific regulations.
All perfumes containing flammable substances must comply with specific EU regulations regarding labeling, packaging, and storage. These include hazard pictograms indicating flammability, clear instructions for safe use, and compliance with the REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorization, and Restriction of Chemicals) regulation, which governs the safety of chemicals in consumer products. Additionally, aerosolized perfumes containing these substances fall under the Aerosol Dispensers Directive, which includes fire safety standards for pressurized products. Certain perfume ingredients are often volatile organic compounds (VOCs) that can ignite under certain conditions. The EU’s regulations primarily come from the CLP (Classification, Labeling, and Packaging) Regulation, REACH, and the Aerosol Dispensers Directive.
“Exchange rates for sure, has given us the most issue,” Olushola says, pointing to Nigeria’s current currency fluctuation problems, and how draconian it has been to steer a business that runs more on importations. “We have had to adjust our price accordingly, and are grateful that our customer base are not ignorant of why we have to do that,” he continues. Thothe also finds this to be a problem. “Although all manufacturing is being done here so we can monitor and ensure that our clients get the best, we sometimes need to import some materials we believe would increase the efficiency of our fragrances, like tobacco from Zimbabwean fields to obtain tobacco fragrance oils,” she says, “and that means relying on our weak currency to complete such transactions.”
As the African fragrance market continues to grow, there is a clear opportunity for brands, both local and international, to capitalize on the continent’s rich cultural and natural resources. One of the key areas of growth lies in sustainable sourcing and eco-friendly perfumes. With a global shift toward clean beauty and sustainability, Africa’s naturally sourced ingredients like shea, frankincense, myrrh, and sandalwood, offer a rich source of inspiration for green beauty brands. The potential for growth in the African perfume market is enormous. Global consumers are increasingly drawn to perfumes that tell a story, and African perfumes—with their strong cultural ties and artisanal roots—are well-positioned to meet this demand.
